Pro Hub and BSA slots

[68camaro]

I used the Pro Hub to make sure my axles would go in the BSA pregrooved slots straight. This did not work, I had to bend axles to get desired result.

What could my problem have been. Since I was really drilling out the preslotted groves, did the bit that came with the tool flex toward the "open" portion of the groove? I tried to fix this with wood putty, then redrill, to no avail.

Stumped in VA, any help appreciated.

Thanks

[RacerX]

You ment "Pro Body Tool" right?

Well, there are several things that we need to look at.

When using the Pro Body Tool on slots we must remember to reference it from only one side of the block or we will only mimic the existing slot. First and foremost, the Pro Body Tool works best on a full size block. I get many calls and e-mails about how to use it on a cut down or shaped block and with a large amount of material removed, this is difficult to reference. #1, using a square, draw a reference line up the reference side of the block from the center of the front and rear slot. Install the tool and align the reference line on the block with the reference line on the tool. You now want to square the referencing ear of the tool to the side of the body, if there is a gap on the opposite side it can be shimmed with paper and drilled through. Once the tool is squared to the reference side, clamp it. With a variable speed drill slowly peck out the new straight hole in the slot, repeat on the opposite side. Once finished, release the Pro Body Tool and slide it forward as not to rotate it and repeat on the second axle, only do one if you are making a 3 wheeler then rotate the tool 90 deg. and make your raised axle.

My other question is: are you sure your axles were straight to begin with? The BSA axles are terriable this season and with out a Pro Axle Press you are just shooting in the wind. Even if you are purchasing a finished axle we have seen some that a quick pressing before polish would do wonders for.

I hope this helps a little.

Racer X

[68camaro]

Racer X

Thanks for your help.

"we must remember to reference it from only one side of the block or we will only mimic the existing slot" - Bingo, probably my mistake. I did do your #1, but did it on both sides not just one.

"if there is a gap on the opposite side it can be shimmed with paper and drilled through" - can you explain this further? Where would the gap be you are talking about?

I used the Speed Axles from maximum-velocity, and polished. I doubt they were axle's fault but instead problem as stated above.

Thanks

Chuck

[RacerX]

Chuck,

Once you have squared your Pro Body tool tight against the reference side some blocks will have a gap on the opposite side between the tool ear and the block. Shimming this gap with a little paper helps keeping the tool square on the reference side.

If you put a line on the slot on both sides and adjust the tool to the lines is will usually make a great oval race car.


Racer X

[68camaro]

Racer X,

If original slot is not straight, and I use Pro Tool to drill a straight one using the original slot on one side as guide, will the drill bit flex off center into the path of the original slot?

Thanks

68camaro

[RacerX]

That is it's natural direction of the bit. You need to take it slow and peck at it, don't try to drill it all in one shot. I have also seen many rules that will allow you to move the axle mounting point up to 1/4" longer total to re-drill for bad slots.

Builder Jim uses the Pro Body Tool with a pin-vice and says it works great and has built many cars on his original Pro Body Tool.