axel prep

[stoney15]

Hey guys I am new to this stuff and I have a few ?. I have been reading and the more I read the more confused I get. Cant the wheels, dont cant the wheels, groove the axels-dont groove the axels, make it a railrider-dont let it touch the rails.


Anyway for my ?. I just bought a micromesh kit that ranges from 1500 to 12000. Can I start polishing the axels right away with the 1500 or do I need to use sandpaper in coarser varieties and work my way to the 1500. Also read about using mothers mag polish. Where does that fit in, after the 12000. Or dont even use it? please restore my sanity and give me guidance. I cant read anymore, it will on add to the confusion.

Thanks a million for the help

[DerbyDoc.com]

stoney15 said:

Hey guys I am new to this stuff and I have a few ?. I have been reading and the more I read the more confused I get. Cant the wheels, dont cant the wheels, groove the axels-dont groove the axels, make it a railrider-dont let it touch the rails.


Anyway for my ?. I just bought a micromesh kit that ranges from 1500 to 12000. Can I start polishing the axels right away with the 1500 or do I need to use sandpaper in coarser varieties and work my way to the 1500. Also read about using mothers mag polish. Where does that fit in, after the 12000. Or dont even use it? please restore my sanity and give me guidance. I cant read anymore, it will on add to the confusion.

Thanks a million for the help

Hey Stoney, It can get confusing because these cars can all be different. Most guys that post here list the techniques that work best for them. In a typical scout race, I wouldnt worry about canting the wheels since its harder to get the alignment right. As far as railriding goes,I like doing it and it helps to stablilze the car so it doesnt bounce around on the track. On my scout axles, I file the inner head on a bevel, then hit thecrimp marks lightly with a file. Then I go with 400 grit lightly, and work up to 1500 grit. You can keep polishing with higher grits but a good metal polish will work good after 1500 grit. This might sound even more confusing but I like to keep some minor scratches in my axles when Im using graphite. The graphite seems to cling to the axle better.

[derbyace]

I personally think over 1000 grit is not really needed. I have polished metal before, and I know that Polishing shops dont even go past 360, then use the polishing compounds. Mother's metal polish is ok, but one of the Ebay sellers has a set of metal polishes that I heard from a friend works really good with the axles. Maybe you can look in the pinewood derby listings for it. Practice on a piece of aluminum that is flat and has enough area for you to see your results...it's hard to see your results on a small axle.

Good Luck!
D.A

[geekmedic]

Do you straighten the axel (press) then start then de-bur or get the bur marks off first, then press, and polish?

[geekmedic]

Sorry, found the answer by looking at the directions for the press and it says to de-bur then straighten.

Thanks, still interested to know what works for you guys.

Geek out!

[Parrot Racing]

Hey Stoney, I polish to 2000 then use the mothers mag polish. You have to be careful at what grit you start at also, doesn't take long to reduce the axle diameter with the lower grits. Just the way I do it.
Good luck.

Enrico-Parrot Racing

[DerbyDoc.com]

parrotracing said:

Hey Stoney, I polish to 2000 then use the mothers mag polish. You have to be careful at what grit you start at also, doesn't take long to reduce the axle diameter with the lower grits. Just the way I do it.
Good luck.

Enrico-Parrot Racing

I couldnt agree more. I did find some great 2 part polish from a guy and I couldnt believe how great it worked. I think it costs about $40 for 8 oz though......I was lucky enough to get a little from the guy.