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Post by PinewoodPerformance on May 3, 2004 7:02:11 GMT -6
Ok, I just picked up a low end air brush to play with, anyone know what might be some decent paints to use? I have heard Auto Paints work well with the right Primer, anyone?
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Post by parrish on May 3, 2004 7:48:33 GMT -6
Hi all,
I have used Faskolor in the past. It is paint for lexan rc bodies. It is a waterbase paint so clean-up is a breeze! It is a rts (ready to spray) paint. 50 psi works great!!!
The finish is dull, so I clear coat with a poly clear by minwax from Wal=Mart.
I have just purchased some rts paint called createx. I haven't had a chance to try it yet. It looks like about the same consistency as faskolor.
Has anyone tried anything else?
Mike
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Post by PinewoodPerformance on May 3, 2004 8:00:09 GMT -6
Thanks for the idea Mike, I think the Derby Master himself should answer us on this one now that I think about it. Kevein has a body shop so I am sure he knows how to paint... Must be nice, LOL!
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Post by Derby Master on May 4, 2004 20:33:02 GMT -6
The key to a great paint job on a derby car is using a good 2 part urethane primer to seal the wood and keep grain from showing up. I use all Dupont automotive basecoat/ clearcoat. Try to let primer dry for about one day and wet sand primer with 400 grit wet paper, if you see any wood showing you will have to repeat primer step, after sanding is done and you do not see any wood showing any where you are ready to spray your base color , two or three coats or until car is covered well, let basecoat dry about 10 mins. and use a high quailty urethane automotive clearcoat and spray two coats of clear waiting about 10 mins. between coats of clear for a totally awsome finish.
Kevin Baugher/ Derby Master
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Post by PinewoodPerformance on May 4, 2004 20:42:37 GMT -6
Thanks Kevin! I will save my nickles and dimes and try that, One look at your cars and I see your knowledge!
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Post by JohnNC on May 6, 2004 12:09:23 GMT -6
John, you have some awesome paint jobs/finishes on your new cars. How are you getting these effects? I would love to see a detailed column on painting cars and would love to get more tips from Kevin "Derby Master". I would especially like to see specific brands of paint and clear coats that he uses - as a neophyte, when I go to the stores to purchase these items I get lost in a sea of options and products.
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Post by PinewoodPerformance on May 6, 2004 12:28:00 GMT -6
I was supposed to be a commercial art major and backed out and went into the Marines. That being said even with some natural talent I have a way of destroying cars with spray paint, my cars spend more time in the thinner bucket than on the drying rack... Sadly, my cars are nothing more than a big sticker, like the tattoo's in a cracker jack box oversized with 2 or 3 coats of clearcoat on em... I guess as long as they look nice it's cool!
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Post by PinewoodPerformance on May 7, 2004 6:13:20 GMT -6
tried a 50/50 mix last night with Testor enamel paints (the little 1.00 bottles) it looked beautiful so I put it in the heat box and went to clean out the brush, as I did I dragged the compressor hose against the face of the car... can my luck get worse?
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Post by Threader on May 10, 2004 14:30:26 GMT -6
Derby Master,
This Dupont paint available in a spray can? Do I need to go down and buy a quart at the auto paint store?
Threader
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Post by 2004 on May 10, 2004 19:42:37 GMT -6
Threader not sure if you can buy it in spray cars, but I mix my own and I can mix as small as 1 oz. ,check with your local autobody suppliers to see if they will mix small amounts. If they dont go to a local body shop in your area that mixes there own paint and I would bet they would mix the color you perfer. It usally only takes about 2 oz. of color to paint a derby car and about 4 oz. of clear. I hope this will help you. And good luck.
Kevin Baugher/ Derby Master
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Post by WIRL on Jun 10, 2004 9:48:58 GMT -6
Kevin's paint work on his cars is simply astounding. There is no way our photography can do it justice! To see them in person is a real treat for us!
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Post by speedrr on Mar 18, 2005 21:43:11 GMT -6
I also work in a body shop,I seal the wood with polyester finishing putty sanded with 180 then 220 grit.It's available at body shop supply stores.Then prime with good primer.If you have spray equipment use a good urethane base with clearcoat and you will have a high quality finish that will stand up to graphite.This 2 or 3 part paint is very expensive so if you can ask your local body shop for a small amount.
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Post by builderjim on Mar 23, 2005 22:27:15 GMT -6
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Post by Nimrod on Mar 24, 2005 12:54:06 GMT -6
builder Jim that is a good list ya have there. HOK is the best but they sell to large a quanity for PBD. I like to use this site www.kustomrides.com/paints.htm They will sell you base coats in 2 oz quantities. He also has some nice speed clear and candy colers as well. all products are available in small quantities. I even had a problem with his hardner, called them up and told them what happend, they sent out another bottle right away. Bill is the contact. Here is a pic of a car I did with my son. I have got to say the speed clear is awsome, you can look right into the clear. Steve
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Post by builderjim on Mar 24, 2005 13:02:42 GMT -6
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Post by Nimrod on Mar 24, 2005 13:13:03 GMT -6
Thanks Jim, I cut flames with a plotter using frisket film. I like using the film, it does not curl like some other low tack papers. Only thing I do not like about it is it is clear which makes it tough to tell if it is aligned properly. Jim do you have any recomendations for materials to cut flames on? Any would be appreciated.
Steve
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Post by Nimrod on Mar 24, 2005 13:15:01 GMT -6
Jim, I just took another look at your website, nice stuff. Are you using vynal?
Steve
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Post by builderjim on Mar 24, 2005 13:26:13 GMT -6
you can get colored vinyl and just run this through your plotter. If I had more cash to spend on this stuff I would be using vinyl. I know you can buy blank masking without any designs on them and this would be better. You might want to do a search for RC car airbrush masks. I like to just free hand the design on a piece of masking tape. I work as an architect so drawing and painting just come natural.
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PrecisionPine
Pine Head
Life is good if you want it to be.
Posts: 47
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Post by PrecisionPine on Jan 23, 2006 14:28:51 GMT -6
Hey Nimrod, Thanks for the info. On a side note, how did you shape your wheels. I just tried it the other day using a drill press and an exacto knife, the wheel burned and curdled up. Any advice?
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