khouse
Head in the Pine
Posts: 199
|
Post by khouse on Jun 27, 2008 14:46:13 GMT -6
How may of you have tried the slot in the axle trick? If so did it work out for you?
|
|
|
Post by frontosacam311 on Jun 28, 2008 0:59:37 GMT -6
I think it is a great idea. My derby roots stem from the Royal Rangers pinewood derby. 1982 was my rookie year. Ranger kits use a #4 slotted zinc plated wood screw and a 3/8" wood dowel. Same principle- slotted axle head. Fine tuning can easily be achieved by a minute turn of the axle/screw. Sometimes a fine bend needs to be made in the axle to get the desired results. My transition to nail axle cars has been tricky due to the fact that there is no slot on the axle head to fine tune the car. So for what it's worth,coming from my background in slotted axle heads from the royal ranger cars, I think you came up with a great idea. I plan on implementing it in my future builds using nail axles.
|
|
Sappington R
Head in the Pine
"The Sappster" 10oz
Posts: 210
|
Post by Sappington R on Jun 28, 2008 6:49:21 GMT -6
Khouse- in answer to your question, it really works great. I've converted several of my cars over to your method. It really make fine tuning easier. I have also discovered a technique to make the slot better: Not having a full mechanics workshop & set of tools, almost everything I do is Ad-hoc and discovery. I put the axle in the Derby Worx axle press to keep it stable. Then, carefully lowered the dremel with cut of wheel down to simply start the slot. Then, use a hack saw to deepen and make the groove tighter, if that makes sense. I found using the dremel only was a little sloppy. What type of attachment were you using? I think that you will see a lot of new cars at the Blue Grass Nationals with slotted axles- just a hunch
|
|
khouse
Head in the Pine
Posts: 199
|
Post by khouse on Jun 28, 2008 7:20:02 GMT -6
Sappington, I used the very thin abrasive cut off disc on the dremel tool. I just would dive it into the axle head. This way the very center of the cut was the deepest. I didn't have any problem with slop in the slot. I wonder if your disc is thicker than mine?
|
|
beakerboysracing
Head in the Pine
You can pick your friends, you can pick your nose, but you can't flick your friends across the room.
Posts: 167
|
Post by beakerboysracing on Jun 28, 2008 9:44:14 GMT -6
I haven't tried yet but definately will implement into my next build.
Great tip.
Scott Beakerboys
|
|
|
Post by 3cubdad on Jun 28, 2008 20:10:30 GMT -6
Sappinton and Khouse,
Trying to take the large dremel tool to the small axle is what can cause problems. Clamp the dremel to your workbench parallel to the edge, dont leave the cutoff wheel hanging over the edge. I use the axle press a little differently. Put the nail in so about 1/2 " is still hanging out and then clamp it with a pair of vice grips. With the Dremel on, you can slowly slide the vice grips holding the press and wheel either along the top of the bench or on the edge to easily and accurately put the center of the nail exactly into the side of the coutoff wheel. That way the center is the deepest but you can still cut the full width. It's much easier to have the dremel fixed and slowly move the nail into it than trying to move the dremel onto the nail, since you can't really grip the dremel right next to the cutoff wheel while it's moving!
Just my 2 cents worth!
3cubdad
|
|
khouse
Head in the Pine
Posts: 199
|
Post by khouse on Jun 28, 2008 20:45:35 GMT -6
Good idea 3cub! I found that if your too tentative the dremel will wander. I first just touch the wheel to the head to make any adjustments. Then I firmly cut the slot. I don't move the dremel back and fourth to cut an even depth slot. I plunge it down in the center. This way the center of the cut is deeper.
|
|
Sappington R
Head in the Pine
"The Sappster" 10oz
Posts: 210
|
Post by Sappington R on Jun 29, 2008 8:12:49 GMT -6
3 & K- all great ideas- 3cub, stabilizing the heavier tool makes a lot of sense- all of the table top shop tools work that way- like you wouldn't put a pine block in a vice and try to cut it with a jig saw (even though that's what I've done many times because I don't have the right equipment ). you'd probably use a scroll saw or band saw. Hey, I just realized that I have a birthday in a few weeks....
|
|
|
Post by 3cubdad on Jun 29, 2008 21:21:29 GMT -6
Sappington, For what it's worth, ;D, I can't imagine doing PWD without the scroll saw. Block cuts, shape cuts, even interior cutouts are a piece of cake. The other reason is that I run a bunch of workshops for our cub pack. The scroll saw is quiet enough it's not intimidating to the kids, and slow enough, with minimal movement, that the kids cut out their own cars. (with a little help and a LOT of oversight! ) Birthdays are a GREAT excuse for new tools 3CD
|
|
Sappington R
Head in the Pine
"The Sappster" 10oz
Posts: 210
|
Post by Sappington R on Jun 30, 2008 6:50:00 GMT -6
3cub- I just realized that I've really taken this thread off of the original topic- no disrespect Khouse. OK- question about the scroll saw: Are they good for making square cuts and straight cuts? Is there some attachment that assures that you can keep things square. As I described earlier- I know very little about tools, but learn quickly once I get my hands on them. Can anyone recommend a decently priced high quality, versatile, right sized scroll saw for pinewood cars? Thanks!
|
|
|
Post by 3cubdad on Jun 30, 2008 7:24:06 GMT -6
Sappington, (with apologies to khouse for going off topic ) The scroll saw is designed for basically free hand cuts. However, if I'm doing a long straight cut, or even some of the angles, I just clamp a block on the table and use it as a fence. I love the one I have, but sitting here at work I'm drawing a total blank on the mfg! (however I COULD tell you the weight ratios and COM's of my last three cars! ;D) Steve
|
|
derbydominator
Head in the Pine
"Zero Gravity" PWDR Pro Modified
Posts: 146
|
Post by derbydominator on Jun 30, 2008 10:44:35 GMT -6
Thought I would throw in my own 2 cents here. Just to give a price range, I use a Craftsman 16" with 45 deg tilt to one side (L). It was under $100 when I purchased it a few years ago so maybe still near that number. It works great and is a snap to change blades. My neighbor just purchased an Hitachi of which I have posted the link below. It is more expensive at over $150 but tilts both ways. It has come in handy on a couple of bodies we have cut but I doubt he uses it 5% of the time. I rarely use the tilt. And then, one can can find another way of doing the cutting. Long story short, it is a nice machine but the dual tilt option runs the price up. I imagine Home Depot has an inexpensive option as well. You can purchase an assortment of blades depending on the cut; larger blades with fewer teeth per inch for heavier cuts like the main block cut, then 15 seconds to change to a finer blade with more teeth per inch for precision cuts. Safe to so that it has been one of the most used machines in the shop. I hold my son's hands as he moves the block and the slow speed on a scroll saw has made him feel safer in using it. Band saws and children do not mix!!!! www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=251518-46578-CW40&lpage=noneDarryl
|
|
khouse
Head in the Pine
Posts: 199
|
Post by khouse on Jul 14, 2008 21:24:27 GMT -6
I don't care that the topic goes different ways at all. It's all a learning experience.
|
|
beakerboysracing
Head in the Pine
You can pick your friends, you can pick your nose, but you can't flick your friends across the room.
Posts: 167
|
Post by beakerboysracing on Jul 26, 2008 12:06:47 GMT -6
I implemented the "KHOUSE METHOD" into my last few builds for BGN and I can say it is the greatest tip for alignment I have recieved since I started this PWD hobby. I literally adjusted the alignment on three cars in 20 minutes! Talk about fast! ;D Never had to take the wheels off, just a turn of the screwdriver. Thanks KHOUSE! ;D Scott Beakerboys
|
|
Sappington R
Head in the Pine
"The Sappster" 10oz
Posts: 210
|
Post by Sappington R on Jul 26, 2008 15:09:27 GMT -6
Hey Beak- I told you man! the K-house groove is happening! As far as going off topic: Glad you didn't mind K. I learned a lot in this thread and since it began I've upgraded my workshop to include a Scroll saw and a belt sander. But for anyone who uses a band saw with 6" disc- How do you get the block perfectly square to the disc? I seem to be off a degree or two (It's a $99 Ryobi - is that my problem?)
|
|
|
Post by Gravitycraftsman on Jul 26, 2008 18:24:19 GMT -6
Boys! Going to try the Khouse-Groove Tonight for the BGN! This thread has been great! GC
|
|
khouse
Head in the Pine
Posts: 199
|
Post by khouse on Jul 26, 2008 19:31:08 GMT -6
I think if your running 3 wheels squaring of the block isn't as critical as running 4 wheels. What do you say? I'm glad that the groove thing has worked out for some. When I get my cars back from WIRL I'm going to implement some new stuff to those big axles.
|
|
|
Post by Gravitycraftsman on Jul 26, 2008 21:26:10 GMT -6
Ok...I just got booted off the forum because I didn;t sign in for long enough and lost my entire post.
So here is the quick version:
For those of you who bought a dremel router table, added to your bench or left it in the box ....it's the missing piece to the Khouse Groove System.
The Dremel Router Table is it.
1) You find the right Cutting Wheel Blade you will use to cut the Axle.
2) Attatch your router table to the bench
3) Place the Dremel tool in the Router table "adjust able holder and insert under near and up through the table.
4) tighten holder but not adjustment
5) Place Cutting Wheel and Mandrel in the Dremel tool and tighten
6) Place Axle in Derby Work "Pro-Axle Press" about half way.
7) Adjust the Vertical Hight of the Cutting Wheel to exacting where you want to make the cut.
8) Turn on wheel and while the the Pro-Axle Guide is place on the table holding it firmly in your fingers...slide it forward and the wheel will cut the axle Trouble free, worry free and clean clean clean!
This is big! While I have not tune my cars with the Khouse Groove (sounds like a song), I expect this development will bring the Joy of tunning back to the builders.
Heck, this may even increase the production of more new cars as the tuning time can now be filled with the more joyful aspects of car building......We may even be able to match the car output of Beak! ;D ;D
|
|
|
Post by Gravitycraftsman on Jul 26, 2008 21:27:48 GMT -6
I'll take a picture of what I am talking about an post (if I can figure it out).
How much do you think Dremel is going to owe us on this one?
GC
|
|
|
Post by Gravitycraftsman on Jul 26, 2008 22:09:27 GMT -6
Guys:
Here are the pics..not the best but you get the idea
<a href="http://s274.photobucket.com/albums/jj253/Gravitycraftsman/?action=view¤t=Photo_072608_004.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj253/Gravitycraftsman/Photo_072608_004.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
<a href="http://s274.photobucket.com/albums/jj253/Gravitycraftsman/?action=view¤t=Photo_072608_002.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj253/Gravitycraftsman/Photo_072608_002.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
<a href="http://s274.photobucket.com/albums/jj253/Gravitycraftsman/?action=view¤t=Photo_072608_003.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj253/Gravitycraftsman/Photo_072608_003.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
|
|