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Post by my4345track on Mar 11, 2005 16:57:33 GMT -6
I purchaced the wheel balancer what is some of the tricks for this tool,and is it needed if you use the wheel shaver , the tires I have balanced 2-3 sets if i did them right What do the"expericed" know??
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Post by speedrr on Mar 18, 2005 21:31:17 GMT -6
I purchaced the wheel balancer what is some of the tricks for this tool,and is it needed if you use the wheel shaver , the tires I have balanced 2-3 sets if i did them right What do the"expericed" know?? Just follow the instructions.Yes it is needed if you use the wheel shaver,I have lathe turned wheels and they also needed balancing.
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Post by woodenwonder on May 19, 2005 10:29:48 GMT -6
The thing I do not like about it is that it does not have a pin that fits BSA wheels snug. The 2 pins that come with it are .088 and .093. BSA wheel hubs are .095 - .097. I think the tool would be nicer and more fool proof if the pins fit snug. I tried to make some but if you don't have a lathe to put the point on them forget it. If the point is not exactly dead center there will be a built in heavy spot on the pin itself. Therefore if the wheel was balanced on the pin it would be out of balance by itself. Other than that I think the tool works pretty much as intended. Although I have no way to measure any performace gain, having perfectly balanced wheels certainly can't hurt. Good Luck!
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Post by Peede Experimental on May 19, 2005 15:48:14 GMT -6
Hi, why would you need the pin to fit snug,if it turns it's showing you the hevey side. to To me if it fit snug or tight the magnet may interfer with the turning of the wheel rember these wheels are light and the magnets on the balancer are very strong.Frank
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Post by my4345track on May 19, 2005 16:02:09 GMT -6
thanks for the input anyone have ideas or ideas where on the tire to remove?
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Post by WarpSpeedINC on May 19, 2005 19:51:12 GMT -6
With a maximum wheel speed of around 2400-2500 rpm's, I would be willing to bet it is at least worth a couple milliseconds. That is if everything else is right! But as you said, very tough to measure the gain.
The reason for the magnets and shaft, is to reduce the effect friction ( or drag ) has on the test results. By having a magnet and a shaft, you effectivly remove most all touching parts. The only contact area is at one sharp point on one end of the shaft, thus no drag. The magnetic field may cause a little drag, I don't know. But with this type of arrangement, you can spin that little shaft, and it wiil spin for a long time with very little inertia weight driving it. This is why it should give better, more consistant results than just spining on an axle to check for out of balance. If the shaft isn't a snug fit, allowing the wheel to spin on it, you are loosing some of the gain. We have found that it works a little better, with the rod and wheel properly lubed. For best results, use a flouronated oil, such as nyoil or sb-10, so you can wipe ALL excess off. We have found doing this seems to produce the most consistent results.
You will be more effective removing material from as far away from the axle bore centerline as possible. this has the biggest effect, and will allow you to make adjustments, with less material removal, than if you were to do it closer to the bore centerline.
Good Luck and Happy Racing!! Warp Speed Inc.
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Post by woodenwonder on May 20, 2005 7:24:46 GMT -6
Hi, why would you need the pin to fit snug,if it turns it's showing you the hevey side. to To me if it fit snug or tight the magnet may interfer with the turning of the wheel rember these wheels are light and the magnets on the balancer are very strong.Frank I want a snug fit so there is no movement of the wheel about the pin. Therefore the friction of the pin point spinning on the magnet would be nil. If the wheel is free to move on the pin then in effect it would have to orbit the pin which is just another place to induce outside influence on the results. With the snug fit pin you can just give the wheel a spin and see if it stops in the same place. An out of balance wheel will stop in the same lace everytime I have found that with the loose fitting pins that a wheel that is out of balance can stop as much as 1/8 of a turn difference on consecutive spins, which would make it difficult to find correct location to remove material. Just my 2 cents worth. So use it however you feel comfortable. Good Luck!
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Post by FAST Racing on Oct 31, 2006 7:33:25 GMT -6
Racer X,
Is the wheel balancer able to do Royal Ranger/S&W type wheels?
The bore on our style wheels is .125 (nominal) Do you make pins that will fit our wheels?
Our Ranger Outpost has bought most of your other tools,had to adapt a few for our style cars. Quality stuff all!! ;D ;D If it holds up to 6-11 year old kids then you know it's "bulletproof"
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Post by RacerX on Oct 31, 2006 10:18:30 GMT -6
Thanks for the nice complement, we keep trying to make it faster and funner.
Sorry, we do not make this wheel balancer.
Race Fast
Racer X
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Post by FAST Racing on Oct 31, 2006 10:40:49 GMT -6
Has anyone ever tried to balance RoyalRanger/S&W type wheels? Could you share your experience/method?? Who makes the wheel balancer???
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Post by builderjim on Oct 31, 2006 11:12:21 GMT -6
the wheel balancer is made by RLN Machining.... www.rlnmachining.com . I would contact Ron there for some help. Jim
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Post by FAST Racing on Oct 31, 2006 11:45:42 GMT -6
Thank-you Builder Jim!!!!!
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