IMPORTANT! Instructions for Pro Wheel Shaver XT II

[colopwdfan]

Racer X
I received my new XT II and notice the verbiage of the instructions are the same on both the older instruction sheet as well as the one for the XT II, but now on the diagram (XT II) it shows different settings. Instead of 1 3/16" it shows 1 1/16" and instead of 3/4" it shows 1/2"
Can you clear up my confusion? What are the proper settings for the newer revised XT II?
Thank you
John Row
colopwdfan

[RacerX]

But how do you like the new tool???

We give measurements to try to help with alignment of the tool and these numbers have changed because of how much thicker the new frame is, but here is the real low down in street version: Place the Pro Wheel Shaver on the Pro Hub Tool loosely with the blade retracted enough to install a wheel. Now install a wheel on the hub tool and slide the shaver over until the blade is centered over the wheel, then tighten it down and you are ready.

To shave the inside of the wheel: Install the shaver loosely on the hub too. with the blade retracted down. Install a wheel on the hub tool and slide the tool over until the blade edge slightly lifts the wheel hub off of the shoulder of the hub tool and then tighten the shaver and you are ready to trim up the inside edges of the wheel.

I hope this helps and you can always e-mail me at: [e-mail] with your concerns or if you need help.


Race Fast

Race X

[colopwdfan]

Racer X
The new one is head and shoulders better than the old version! Easier to
adjust is one advantage. It seems more precise, well worth investing in. The
older one was harder to adjust and the plastic part widen the gap when
adjusted. That might be visually difficult description - sorry. I like the
newer version extremely well. Thanks for your response as to adjusting XT II.
The Xt did it's intended job, XT II does it better/easier. Also, I just received a set of DerbyWorx 1.0 gram Ultralite wheels. I had been using other lite wheels off eBay before yours came out
and yours of course are head and shoulders above them for quality. Great job
I'll be using them where I'm able to.
John Row
colopwdfan

[RacerX]

Thanks John,

Your compliments are Greatly appreciated!


Race Fast

Racer X

[maxx]

I have question regarding use of the PWSXT-2.It is my first time using it,I like the fit and feel of the tool but to be quite honest it doesn't seem to take material off the wheel in any uniform fashion.It is my first use of the tool so i am going to give ti some time as i have only made about 12 passes on each wheel.

seems like sometimes it is shaving rather nicely and then other times it feels like it is smearing the plastic off the wheel.There is enough of a difference to make me wonder if the blade is dull or maybe turned around in the tool.

right now the blade is set up the way i got it,looks to have a flat and beveled side to it,the flat side is facing the direction of the cut if you turn the wheel CCW.Is this correct?

any additional info would be great!
Thanks,
Maxx

[builderjim]

Yes. The wheel should turn counter-clockwise.
It will feel like you are not shaving the wheel at some point. This is when you will want to change to the next wheel. You have to do a set of 4 at the same time so that you get all 4 the exact same outside diameter.

If you are just practising with just one wheel, then adjust the blade down another 1/8 turn or so such that the shaver starts to shave again.

Got it?

Jim

[maxx]

Hello Jim,Thanks for the reply.I guess I should be more clear with my questions.I am practicing on a set of four wheels.I understand the idea of removing small amounts of material from each wheel and then going back to the first wheel and setting the tool to remove a Little more than the last pass.

My question is in regard to the orientation of the cutting blade to the wheel when the wheel is being turned in the CCW direction,at the moment the flat side of the blade is facing the direction of a CCW wheel rotation.I want to know if this is correct.I tried rotating the wheel in the CW direction and it seemed to shave the wheel better.

I am wondering if the blade is facing the right way and if it is so do you think that it may need to be honed up a little to make it shave the wheel a little better.it seems to me that i am smearing plastic off the wheel as much as I am shaving it off.

Got It! ;D

Thanks again
Maxx

[builderjim]

It sounds like the blade is installed in the right direction. I know each tool is quality checked before they are sent out to the vendors.

You might want to carefully dress the blade with a honing stone. I would rather have a little less bite to the blade than too much such that it gouges the wheels.

Jim

[maxx]

Thanks Jim

[j2ce]

Gents,

I have the Pro-Shaver XT. The flat side of the blade should be on the CCW side. Not sure if I should be doing this but I shave until I can not feel the mold marking on the wheel. I can still see something but not really feel it. At that point I'm ready for the sand paper. what I have done is glue various grits of sand paper to Popsicle sticks and then sand away (wheel chucked to a drill using a pro wheel mandrel) until there is no blemish. One thing that I have notice (while using the Pro-Shave XT) is that the high point on the wheel travels along the circumference of the wheel usually about 1/8 to 1/4" (So I have a high point that is about 1/8-1/4" long and continues to grow as I shave more and more). As I come up to that point I stop crank down about a tenth of a turn and continue shaving. By the time the mold marking is almost gone I get to a point where turning the wheel is snug along the complete circumference of the wheel. This will take any where from 30 minutes to an hour to accomplish. Now I'm ready for the final sanding of the wheels. Racer X, Jim or Randy is what I'm doing right. The wheels seem to be okay and intuitively it feel that it is right (basically I'm taking an oval wheel and making it round). I do not use any calipers but what is processing through my brain is that the wheel tread thickness is irrelevant at this point because i just want a round tire. Now to have a properly balanced wheel as well I want to remove material from the inner part of the tread and at this point a caliper will assist in accomplishing this. I know my description may not be understandable so please bear with me if necessary i will try to draw diagram and post. If my technique is at all wrong please correct me. The last thing I hate to do is ruin an excellent piece of equipment.


j²ce

[my4345track]

Just recieved my XTII.today along w/some pro ultralights,rsn this weekend hopefully i will have a chance to try em all out!

[RacerX]

j2ce said:

Gents,

I have the Pro-Shaver XT. The flat side of the blade should be on the CCW side. Not sure if I should be doing this but I shave until I can not feel the mold marking on the wheel. I can still see something but not really feel it. At that point I'm ready for the sand paper. what I have done is glue various grits of sand paper to Popsicle sticks and then sand away (wheel chucked to a drill using a pro wheel mandrel) until there is no blemish. One thing that I have notice (while using the Pro-Shave XT) is that the high point on the wheel travels along the circumference of the wheel usually about 1/8 to 1/4" (So I have a high point that is about 1/8-1/4" long and continues to grow as I shave more and more). As I come up to that point I stop crank down about a tenth of a turn and continue shaving. By the time the mold marking is almost gone I get to a point where turning the wheel is snug along the complete circumference of the wheel. This will take any where from 30 minutes to an hour to accomplish. Now I'm ready for the final sanding of the wheels. Racer X, Jim or Randy is what I'm doing right. The wheels seem to be okay and intuitively it feel that it is right (basically I'm taking an oval wheel and making it round). I do not use any calipers but what is processing through my brain is that the wheel tread thickness is irrelevant at this point because i just want a round tire. Now to have a properly balanced wheel as well I want to remove material from the inner part of the tread and at this point a caliper will assist in accomplishing this. I know my description may not be understandable so please bear with me if necessary i will try to draw diagram and post. If my technique is at all wrong please correct me. The last thing I hate to do is ruin an excellent piece of equipment.


j²ce

Everything is correct and you are doing it right. Try light quick cuts to help move you along a little faster. I gues I have a little practice with the tool, but I can have 4 wheels round, true and ready for the next treatment in 15 min's. ;D

With a fine file or honing stone you can put a sharper / more aggressive edge on the blade. The tip has a 5deg. back angle with the lower being the flat side that you rotate against.

Something else to try if you like is to leave the Pro Wheel Shaver blade finish on the wheel and only polish the inner edge. On Wooden tracks it seems like it gives a little directional stability over a polished tread face.

We won the district championship on a 32' wooden Pianodosi track and set the record @ 2.399 sec. on un-polished wheels off the Pro Wheel Shaver, so it worked for us.

Race Fast

Racer X

[j2ce]

Racer X,

Thanks, will try,

j2ce

[sbart626]

Help, I just got the Pro Wheel Shaver XT II and can't seem to get it to work properly. Everything seems to go fine, as I get close to getting the wheel trimmed properly the blade bites into the wheel and leaves big gouge marks in the tread. I am just barely tightening the blade between adjustments. Not sure what I am doing wrong. Any help would be appreciated.

Steve

[builderjim]

Very light shavings is the key to using this tool. The shavings should be so light that if you were to work with a fan on you then the shavings would be all over you. Make an adjustment to the amount you are trying to take off and go slower with the amount. The pressure on the blade against the wheel should be minimal such that you are barely shaving anything, maybe only in a couple of spots along the tread surface. Do not try to crank the blade down so hard against the tread and keep blade adjustments very minimal, 1/8 of a turn.

I also had had to sharpen the balde with a wet fine honing stone to keep the edges sharp.

Jim

[builderjim]

After not using my wheel shaver for a while, I decided to see if i could duplicate why some are having problems with the tool biting into the wheels. Here is what I have found to be the best way to "Shave" the wheels without the tool biting into the wheels.

First, I am right handed, so I hold the shaver in my left with the black screw handle pointing up, three fingers, middle to pinky, are folded over the Pro-hub tool, Index finger is wrapped over the "L" shaped bracket while my thumb rests on metal plate where the blade tightening screw is. I turn the wheel with my right hand toward me, CCW, using my thumb at the wheel's 9 o'clock position and the tip of my index finger at the 4 o'clock position.

What this does is takes the pressure off the wheel to push it into the blade which is where I ran into the gouging problem when I turned the tool around and rotated the wheel with pressure from my thumb. If the wheel has a tendency to "stick" the you are taking too deep of a cut.

Jim

P.S. My son shaved a set in about an hour that are all within .001 after showing him how to hold the tool and wheel so yes a child can do the work to the wheels.