ohno
Newbie
Posts: 6
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Post by ohno on Jan 15, 2009 21:06:35 GMT -6
Hi.. I am new to the forums.. I have read them for the past year or so, but first post.
What brings me to post is I recently purchased all the derby worx tools. But the shaver is leaving some doubt to my mind.
I pulled out some test wheels and have tried to shave a wheel. I immediately noticed the blade backing off the wheel unless I held a fair amount of tension on the knob. If I were to relax my fingers it would back off the wheel. And I am figuring it is the spring backing the blade out. Which leaves me with the question.. will my wheels end up egg shaped since it is not taking the same amount off the whole way around ? And if I am applying constant pressure then the wheel will continue to get smaller. I will not be able to get a uniformed wheel ..
Are all the shavers like this or is something wrong with mine ?
Thanks for any help...
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Post by Derby Worx Pro Team on Jan 16, 2009 6:58:33 GMT -6
It sounds like maybe the 2 screws that hold the 2 aluminum pieces of the shaver are not as tight as they should be. Check this first. The other thing to check is that if you have your hub tool perpendicular to the Shaver. Use a small tri-square for this. Without the hub tool being perpendicular to the shaver you will get a variance in the tread perimeter of your wheels.
If all else fails, PM RacerX and he will ask that you send the tool back to him for evaluation and replacement if necessary.
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ohno
Newbie
Posts: 6
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Post by ohno on Jan 16, 2009 14:45:27 GMT -6
DWPT Thanks for the tips... I pulled the allen wrench out and cranked the bolts tighter. Tried it and then torqued it down some more.. repeated til it remained stable. It took a fair amount of force/torque to get it to stop backing out, but it is better. Now it takes two men and a boy to crank the knob I can live with it though... Derby is in a week... Thanks Again for the help...
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ohno
Newbie
Posts: 6
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Post by ohno on Jan 18, 2009 0:13:46 GMT -6
I'm back again... sat down tonight to work on the wheels... not so good... Soon as the blade would start to get close to a full swipe...it would back off again... I give up....I have fought with it all day lost 2 sets of matched wheels over it and am just a little frustrated. I am starting to wonder if the spring is too much for it Possibly a lighter spring I am at wits end over the lost wheels and tool that will not stay put without constant pressure. How many board memebers own the shaver ? And has anyone else had a similar issue ?? If so how did you remedy it ?
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Post by Lucky 13 on Jan 18, 2009 2:22:47 GMT -6
I'm back again... sat down tonight to work on the wheels... not so good... Soon as the blade would start to get close to a full swipe...it would back off again... I give up....I have fought with it all day lost 2 sets of matched wheels over it and am just a little frustrated. I am starting to wonder if the spring is too much for it Possibly a lighter spring I am at wits end over the lost wheels and tool that will not stay put without constant pressure. How many board memebers own the shaver ? And has anyone else had a similar issue ?? If so how did you remedy it ? Ohno, I have the Pro-Wheel Shaver and have had no problems with it. Sounds like you might just have a defective unit. Contact DerbyWorx, I'm sure Racer-X will take care of it for you. Lucky 13
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ohno
Newbie
Posts: 6
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Post by ohno on Jan 19, 2009 0:13:15 GMT -6
I need the wheels done by next weekend (derby) not much time to wait for another unit... Sad thing is I need 2 more sets done after my sons race, for my daughters' cars (powder puff derby) in March...
Today I sat down at 12:00pm bound and determined to figure out what is up with the tool. I took the spring off the handle... helped a tad with the backing off but the blade had a tendency to jump.. so I put it back on. I searched the web then til about 1:30 in search of people that had previous problems.. found a few past posts on this...
I found a handful of people that had limited success by sharpenign the blade/ changing the angle of the blade.. So I pulled out my Lansky set and went to town.. Put 17 degrees on one side and 24 degrees on the opposite side..
Sat down for a test.. Cut okay that time, still not what I expected the tool to be. I went back to the sharpener. Then sat back down.. See before it was a nightmare holding pressure to the knob in order to hold a cut for the entire diameter. Atleast now with a razor edge it was easier to hodl the constant pressure as the blade cut easier. The backing off of the blade continued. I could not resolve that issue.
I got all my wheels within .0005 of each other but I noticed small grooves in the wheel around the circumfrence.. (due to the sharpening I figure) So then it was over to the drill press with the mandrel mounted up. Took it down with 1500 grit paper right around 8:45pm and my wheels were good enough for me.
So I had 8 hrs in a set of wheels. Not 100% happy but they will have to do with only 6 days til race time. I dread the thought of 16hrs for 2 more sets of wheels. What we do for the kids...lol...
After all is said and done.. I did get the blade to cut nicer and it stopped gouging the wheel. However the blade still retracts itself if you do not hold pressure to the knob. BTW I did each wheel seperate and used micrometers to measure each wheel down to size. It came pretty close to taking .0004 each full revolution, so I was able to use that as a measuring point.
I enjoyed the other tools that I recieved but this tool has caused many headaches. I have not had any issues with any of the other tools. (I have the complete set) At this moment I would not be able to recommend this tool for others.. it is simply too hard to use, especially for children. My son wanted to take a stab at it and he was not able to keep the constant pressure. I did mount the tool in my hobby vise to help in my day long journey...
But like I had mentioned above.. I was simply out of time to send it back.. I needed at least one set of wheels before next weekend. But now I have a month before the other 2 sets are due... If there is a fix for it, I would love to have it working correctly... I do like the idea of what it is for.
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beakerboysracing
Head in the Pine
You can pick your friends, you can pick your nose, but you can't flick your friends across the room.
Posts: 167
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Post by beakerboysracing on Jan 19, 2009 8:44:09 GMT -6
I need the wheels done by next weekend (derby) not much time to wait for another unit... Sad thing is I need 2 more sets done after my sons race, for my daughters' cars (powder puff derby) in March... Today I sat down at 12:00pm bound and determined to figure out what is up with the tool. I took the spring off the handle... helped a tad with the backing off but the blade had a tendency to jump.. so I put it back on. I searched the web then til about 1:30 in search of people that had previous problems.. found a few past posts on this... I found a handful of people that had limited success by sharpenign the blade/ changing the angle of the blade.. So I pulled out my Lansky set and went to town.. Put 17 degrees on one side and 24 degrees on the opposite side.. Sat down for a test.. Cut okay that time, still not what I expected the tool to be. I went back to the sharpener. Then sat back down.. See before it was a nightmare holding pressure to the knob in order to hold a cut for the entire diameter. Atleast now with a razor edge it was easier to hodl the constant pressure as the blade cut easier. The backing off of the blade continued. I could not resolve that issue. I got all my wheels within .0005 of each other but I noticed small grooves in the wheel around the circumfrence.. (due to the sharpening I figure) So then it was over to the drill press with the mandrel mounted up. Took it down with 1500 grit paper right around 8:45pm and my wheels were good enough for me. So I had 8 hrs in a set of wheels. Not 100% happy but they will have to do with only 6 days til race time. I dread the thought of 16hrs for 2 more sets of wheels. What we do for the kids...lol... After all is said and done.. I did get the blade to cut nicer and it stopped gouging the wheel. However the blade still retracts itself if you do not hold pressure to the knob. BTW I did each wheel seperate and used micrometers to measure each wheel down to size. It came pretty close to taking .0004 each full revolution, so I was able to use that as a measuring point. I enjoyed the other tools that I recieved but this tool has caused many headaches. I have not had any issues with any of the other tools. (I have the complete set) At this moment I would not be able to recommend this tool for others.. it is simply too hard to use, especially for children. My son wanted to take a stab at it and he was not able to keep the constant pressure. I did mount the tool in my hobby vise to help in my day long journey... But like I had mentioned above.. I was simply out of time to send it back.. I needed at least one set of wheels before next weekend. But now I have a month before the other 2 sets are due... If there is a fix for it, I would love to have it working correctly... I do like the idea of what it is for. Ohno, I own six of these shavers that I use for workshops. They have cut 100s of wheels and do an excellent job. For some of my inexperienced users, they do some times get small horizontial cut marks that are easily sanded out with 600 grit paper on the wheel mandrel. I have only had on problem with a blade that was chipped. I just replaced the blade. Other than that, this is a great tool. It will enable you to take a egg shaped wheel and make it round. I have even take a set of "out of the box" wheels and prepped them with the combination of Derby Worx tools and made wheels just as fast as the CNC lathed wheels that you can buy that are ready to run. Make sure you are turning the wheel in a counterclock wise direction as the tool cuts much better that way. Other than that, I would say the backing off of the blade is definately a defect. I am certain Racer X will send you another one quickly. Probably overnight if needed. Contact him at racerx@derbyworx.com Scott Beakerboys
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Post by RacerX on Jan 19, 2009 11:54:13 GMT -6
Wow, I wish we would of seen this sooner, it is derby season as we all know.
There are several tricks I have learned over the years with the Pro Wheel Shaver XT2 and to be quite honest we are VERY HAPPY with the performance of the tool. So far this month we have built 10-12 sub 3 sec. cars on both black and colored full weight wheels with the Pro Wheel Shaver XT2.
Things to keep in mind using the Pro Wheel Sahver XT2.
1. Don't fight the tool, take small light fluffy cuts. 2. Move the tool over the wheel in brisk/quick movements. 3. Work a quarter of the wheel, move, do a quarter of the wheel. 4. When all 4 quarters are done, fully rotate the wheel with your index finger and thumb several times untill nothing else comes off, now you are done.
Tool Tips.
1. Polish your Pro Hub Tool Pin like a axle. 2. Use a little lube on the Pro Hub Tool (We use nye oil and clean up afterwards for graphite) 3. A small amount of oil on each end of the spring at the washer helps. 4. If your blade is backing off, that is because you do not have down ward pressure from the feed screw on it. This can be from a loose blade in the slot. Tip: Take 2 pairs of pliers nose to nose in the center of the blade and ever so slightly crease or bend the blade, VERY LIGHTLY!!! This will tighten the blade in the slot of the tool halves and ensure the feed screw is DRIVING or PUSHING the blade. This sounds like it would cure some of the nay-say posters problems but I never get any e-mail feed back.
Oh, last tip, practice with the tool then move to your good wheels, this is why we include practice wheels in the bag.
Believe me, this tool WORKS, we have put a ton of time, development and money into it, the XT2 is the 4 version of it and we currently hold a U.S. Patent on it. We take this tool very seriously!!!
If you have any questions about it or need help, please let us know.
Race Fast
Racer X
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ichiban
Head in the Pine
Posts: 138
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Post by ichiban on Jan 19, 2009 13:42:55 GMT -6
None of the dealers advertise replacement blades for it so where can we get one and how much do they cost?
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Post by RacerX on Jan 19, 2009 13:48:38 GMT -6
Just ask any of them. i know several of them stock them.
If you have probs finding one, let us know, we will make sure you get one.
Racer X
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ohno
Newbie
Posts: 6
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Post by ohno on Jan 23, 2009 12:58:08 GMT -6
Update:
I bent the blade as suggested and it no longer backs off.
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Post by br549 on Jan 29, 2009 6:30:36 GMT -6
The good folks at www.Maximum-Velocity.com hooked me up with a replacement blade. I sent e-mail to info@maximum-velocity.com and Randy answered my request and is sending the blade. It cost $5 plus shipping. He answered my email very quickly.
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Post by speedwreck on Feb 12, 2009 6:28:47 GMT -6
RacerX,
I have a question about these two lines of your instructions above:
"2. Move the tool over the wheel in brisk/quick movements. 3. Work a quarter of the wheel, move, do a quarter of the wheel."
I thought that we were to be pushing up slightly on the wheel and turning it, to keep the wheel bore square and pressed to the mandrel when we are shaving. Are we instead to be rotating the tool about the wheel ? Aren't you at risk then of things not being square ?
Also, does it matter which way the wheel is mounted ('spokes' in/out) ? I have heard that the wheel bore is tapered, so maybe it matters.
Thanks !
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Post by rocketrod on Feb 23, 2009 19:28:43 GMT -6
I am glad I ran across this post. I was having similar problems with blade backing off. I will try the recommended fixes and report back!
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Post by RacerX on Feb 24, 2009 14:17:45 GMT -6
I think you will find with the slight bend in the blade to provide tension and a drop of lube on the washers you will be very happy.
Remember, relax and take small feather like cuts but move briskly, it should not take long to cut a set of wheels.
Always true the hubs and use the trued hub as your working reference face.
if you need help, please e-mail us: RacerX@Derbyworx.com
Good Luck
Racer X
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khouse
Head in the Pine
Posts: 199
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Post by khouse on Mar 5, 2009 6:55:06 GMT -6
My blade was a little loose when I received the shaver. I filed the body for a tighter fit. After reading here about slightly bending the blade I performed the tweak. What a difference that made. There is no more blade biting or chatter marks. Works like a dream. I found that rotating the tool as well as the wheel at the same time works good. For the initial cuts I work the shaver back and fourth on about 1/6 of the tread at a time. Then cut a new section moving all the way around the wheel. Then once the wheel is round I rotated the wheel in one direction cleaning up the cuts. The whole process only takes about 3 minutes a wheel.
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Derbyspeed
Newbie
"Do or Do Not, There is No Try"
Posts: 8
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Post by Derbyspeed on Apr 15, 2009 1:50:28 GMT -6
Definitely thanks Racer X for posting the info, I have a brand new Shaver and it does back off as well and it's hard to get the feed screw to turn without having to go too far as the spring holds it back. Then when I switch wheels I lose my setting, I am thinking the blade is too loose just as you said. I'll try your suggestions and oil the washers also. Thanks again!
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Post by clydesdale on Feb 19, 2010 12:01:07 GMT -6
Can someone please further explain the plier trick to bending the blade? I cannot invision using 2 pairs of pliers to bend this blade. What position is the blade in? Fully extended? Is one set of pliers on each end of the blade and then you push toward the same wall and thereby creasing it? Mine seams to back out of fine adjustment and may benefit from this. Thanks.
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Post by RacerX on Feb 25, 2010 12:13:52 GMT -6
You just want to make a slight bend in the blade to take up any slight clearance between the blade and the machined channel. Check out the video on tuning the shaver: www.youtube.com/derbyworxRacer X
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Post by clydesdale on Feb 28, 2010 10:05:56 GMT -6
Bingo! Great video, no need to return the product now. Thanks.
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