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Post by smylefixer on Jan 25, 2010 10:31:34 GMT -6
Just a bit confused... I used the rail rider tool to bend my rear axles. Doesn't this introduce error in the alignment, ie the potential of having a toe in toe out problem in the rear axle. I'm just trying to figure out why my car wanders. I set up the FDW to move to the rail, but the car still wanders. Sometimes it moves to the rail sometimes it does not. I am using grooved axles. Does this tend to affect the direction of the wheel? Need help... race this saturday
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Post by Lucky 13 on Jan 25, 2010 11:18:26 GMT -6
Just a bit confused... I used the rail rider tool to bend my rear axles. Doesn't this introduce error in the alignment, ie the potential of having a toe in toe out problem in the rear axle. I'm just trying to figure out why my car wanders. I set up the FDW to move to the rail, but the car still wanders. Sometimes it moves to the rail sometimes it does not. I am using grooved axles. Does this tend to affect the direction of the wheel? Need help... race this saturday Yes, this can introduce problems, but the nice part about bent axles compared to canted holes, is you have the ability to adjust toe-in and toe-out and get rid of the problem. I have built a lot of cars with the Rail Rider tool and have had a lot of success with them. Checking to make sure the wheels are square to the body is very important when setting your car up. I don't 100% trust the mark I put on the axles when bending them. I only use it as a start point placing it at noon when inserting the axle. After that I hold the car on its side letting the wheel drop out to the axle head and visually check the gap between the body and the front of the wheel and the body and back of the wheel. I then make adjustments to the axle until the wheel is sqaure to the body. Here is a picture... Here is the same car after I was done adjusting. It's a little hard to see, but this axle ended up being at around 11 o'clock instead of noon to make the wheel sqaure to the body. I can tell you that I 100% will not bend grooved axles. The gooves seem to open up more and cause binding in the wheel bore. I only use non-gooved when bending axles. On multiple occasions I have seen the binding happen. I would defintely switch out the grooved axles in favor of a non grooved set. Lucky 13
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Post by smylefixer on Jan 25, 2010 11:30:54 GMT -6
Thank You, very helpful. You confirmed my suspicion about the grooved axles. In your opinion, does a wheel with the outer hub coned, with the axlehead beveled create a problem with the canted wheel? Also, Any advice for ensuring a straight wheel when the body has been modified so you can't use the edge as a reference plane?
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Post by Lucky 13 on Jan 25, 2010 11:45:26 GMT -6
Thank You, very helpful. You confirmed my suspicion about the grooved axles. In your opinion, does a wheel with the outer hub coned, with the axlehead beveled create a problem with the canted wheel? Also, Any advice for ensuring a straight wheel when the body has been modified so you can't use the edge as a reference plane? You're Welcome, I hope this helps you out. I think a beveled axle head with the outer hub coned is fine. That's the set up I use. If you cannot use the car sides as a reference point, just get a micrometer, sit the car on a flat surface rolling it forward a little so the axles migrate to the head and then measure the distance between the front of the 2 rear wheels and the back of the 2 rear wheels. Basically the same way a real car alignment is done, just in a scaled down version. Lucky 13
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