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Post by ninjarabbi1997 on Nov 19, 2004 11:55:30 GMT -6
Has anyone experimented with hallowing out the body of their car? What do I need to think through/do for this? Or is it not even a good consideration? Thanks.
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Post by Threader on Nov 19, 2004 12:07:07 GMT -6
A lot of people hollow out the body of the car. The theory is the more dense weight pack will perform better. Removing wood allows the addition of more metal (lead, tunsten, brass) causing the weight to be more a compact mass.
I use a drill press and a 1/4" or 1/8" router bit for a dremel tool. I used to use the dremel with a metal cutting bit but the drill press gives more control.
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Post by ninjarabbi1997 on Nov 20, 2004 19:07:03 GMT -6
If I hallow out the bottom of the car, will this create air pockets that will create drag? Is there some sort of plate I should put on the bottom? Thanks.
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chknbone
Newbie
"It's never really fixed until I break something in the process at least once."
Posts: 7
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Post by chknbone on Nov 11, 2005 9:22:12 GMT -6
I like to use a piece of wide, colored nylon tape to cover up any large hallowed out holes under my cars. It's sticky enough to stay there and cover the hole but not so sticky that it would mess up the finish if I had to pull it back off.
bone
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PrecisionPine
Pine Head
Life is good if you want it to be.
Posts: 47
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Post by PrecisionPine on Nov 21, 2005 16:46:37 GMT -6
When I want to "hallow" my pinewood derby car, I take it down to the local cathedral and I have the local priest sprinkle some holy water on it. ;D
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Post by silentnolonger on Jan 16, 2006 12:27:25 GMT -6
This thread is old, but I'll reply anyway. I have used the silver foil duct tape. It works great. It is very sticky and provides a smooth firm finish to cover what could be a large opening. I'll dig out a picture and add it later. Hope this helps.
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Post by 58corvette on Jan 20, 2006 0:47:18 GMT -6
I have used the drill press and special dremel cutting bit that cuts both up and down as well as side to side. I hollow out most of the wood and get to about 1/16 inch on the sides of the body. Then fill with lead (buckshot) and bondo. I never touch the bottom of the car for fear sanding the bottom in any way could affect the alignment. NEVER sand the bottom side of the car as it will create a high point on one or more of the wheels. The bondo/buckshot mixture is easy to work with to fill the body. I pound the buckshot flat with a hammer making little disks to lay flat. Then finish with another layer or two of bondo to make the body perfect again. We have run several versions of the wedge. (very thin) and very fast. Everyone comments on how such a thin car can weigh so much. I have two sons so each year we build identicle looking cars with different color combinations. Last year we went undefeated in pack racing and took 1st and 3rd in districts. Goal this year is two 1st place cars at districts.
58Corvette ;D
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Post by patmanruls on Jan 20, 2006 8:20:35 GMT -6
I have used the drill press and special dremel cutting bit that cuts both up and down as well as side to side. I hollow out most of the wood and get to about 1/16 inch on the sides of the body. Then fill with lead (buckshot) and bondo. I never touch the bottom of the car for fear sanding the bottom in any way could affect the alignment. NEVER sand the bottom side of the car as it will create a high point on one or more of the wheels. The bondo/buckshot mixture is easy to work with to fill the body. I pound the buckshot flat with a hammer making little disks to lay flat. Then finish with another layer or two of bondo to make the body perfect again. We have run several versions of the wedge. (very thin) and very fast. Everyone comments on how such a thin car can weigh so much. I have two sons so each year we build identicle looking cars with different color combinations. Last year we went undefeated in pack racing and took 1st and 3rd in districts. Goal this year is two 1st place cars at districts. 58Corvette ;D Now how about some pictures... congratulations on your success.
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Post by SpeedGeek on Jan 29, 2006 13:39:44 GMT -6
I do something similar with surplus tungsten shot. It's easy to do; just add bondo to form a coherent mass, and pack it into the prepared cavity. Density is about the same as steel, so there are some limitations if you feel the need to control your CG precisely. But it's easy and cheap.
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