Here are my modified pliers for turning axle when I am tuning cars.
If you are rail riding, you will be tuning your front dominant axle to slightly turn into the rail. Also, you can tune your rear axles by slightly turning them (one at a time) and see if you get faster times.
Tuning your rear axles is different depending if you are running bent axles or straight axles.
If you remove metal from the pliers where you grab the axle to tune, it will be easier to get between the axle head and BSA outer hub lip.
I still might take some more metal off the pliers. Currently, they work better but still need further optimization.
We really like the Max-V pliers for doing alignment, have been using them for a few seasons now with great sucess. They allow great grip of the axle head and allow a VERY SMALL amount of adjustment safely because you can get such a firm grip on the axle head and not wory about damage. I really believe that the very small adjustment is what a lot of newer builders are missing when building a Rail Rider and they struggle.
The "GRX" is the WORLDS fastest car! Now if I could just find that secret speed spray!!!
Agreed, I use the Max V Pliers for DERBY WORX ULTRA LITES and PRO RAZORS.
We have used those Max V Pliers for three years on hundreds of scout cars. The Scouts have an easy time installing/removing axles with the Max V Pliers. Those pliers do a nice job of pulling axles out in a uniform manner so there is minimal probability of damaging the axle.
We use modified pliers to fine tune the drift on the Pro Cars where there is little clearance between the axle head and outer hub of wheel. For Cub Scout Builds, the modified pliers is not necessary.