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Post by squidhead on Jan 12, 2012 20:04:40 GMT -6
I have been advised by some of the recent winners of our packs pinewood derby that Rail Riders don't work out on our track ( wooden ). I haven't got an answer why ( guess they are taking it to the grave with them ) but what would be the next best way to gain speed?
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Post by Murph on Jan 12, 2012 21:27:43 GMT -6
There can be two types of wooden tracks:
- Wooden track with center guide
- Wooden track with no center guide
Rail riders only work with center guides for the front dominant (DOM) wheel to ride against.
If your track has no center guide, you will have to build a straight runner. No problem. Let us know what type of track you have and we can set you up!
Murph
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Post by squidhead on Jan 13, 2012 6:15:18 GMT -6
It has the center rail - I am just wondering if the people who made the Rail Riders did them properly? They have had sucess in the past years except for the Rail Riders. I guess I'll build both ways and see what one is working best for me.
So - If I am going to build both - Should I still bend the axles on the straight runner?
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Post by RacerX on Jan 13, 2012 18:51:50 GMT -6
By adding some camber(bending the axle) even though you are shooting for running straight, you can achieve several things. First, you will be able to establish zero toe in the rear, this is VERY important. regardless of how perfect you can drill a body, each wheel and axle set has its own charcteristics and will benifit from a bit of adjustment. When you hit that sweet spot in the alignment, you will almost feel the car breath a "sigh of relief". Second, with the wheel cambered a touch, you are freeing it up from full contact of the tread face to the track or some rolling resistance. Third, the camber will aid some in reducing the dreaded "Tail Wag" on a car set up to run straight.
But, what I really bet is that if it is a older wooden track that is prob not squared or leveled, you will end up with a Rail Rider anyway. The real question is will it be the wheel you want on the rail?
Racer X
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Post by squidhead on Jan 14, 2012 13:11:49 GMT -6
I am guessing that's why it was recommended using the 7" drift for 4'? This way you are pretty safe on any tracks conditions?
I know our pack runs the heats based on times. Each heat , each car is run on a different track and the winners are based on best total times.
I can enter 3 cars. 1 for the scout in the scouts class and 1 each for my daughter and myself in open class ( if I can manage to build 2 extra cars while helping my son ).
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Post by Murph on Jan 14, 2012 22:59:38 GMT -6
Squid,
If I had your car rignt now, I could dial it in and know about how much drift you need. More drift is safe on an unknown wooden track.
Lets put it this way, we just ran the championships over at PWDRacing and I used 7" drift/4 feet on my Hot Rod. First run down, the car ran a new track record. Second run, I lost my drift because I drilled the front axle hole with a 43 instead of a 44. The car dramatically slowed down.
Murph
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Post by stealthscan on Mar 3, 2013 15:38:03 GMT -6
Murph,
I know this s an older thread, but have a related question.
I have looked at a TON of cars on a few sites and see some using what looks like set screws on the axle. At least I think that is what they are. Would the use of these prevent axle shifting, or cause more when you tighten them down?
Thanks
Sheldon
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