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Post by squidhead on Jan 29, 2012 17:21:39 GMT -6
For the life of me I could not get my sons rail rider to drift more then an inch!
To do this "good" I had the rear wheels 2.5 cant and the front dominant wheel 1.5.
The rear wheels where adjusted fine so they rode on the axle heads.
Any adjustment of the front axle would actually make the car drift opposite the rail or make the "floating" wheel make contact to the track or my alignment board.
I did trim 1/16" on the dominant axle side.
I tried several different axle arrangements placing 1.5 cant on the back and 2.5 on the front. 1.5 all the way around Except for making the car slower, I had the same results.
I had COG 3/4" in front of the rear wheels.
I noticed on one of Murph's that there was a weight on the dominant axle. I guess that helps with the drift adjustment? What am I missing?
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Post by 5KidsRacing on Jan 29, 2012 18:20:25 GMT -6
For the life of me I could not get my sons rail rider to drift more then an inch! To do this "good" I had the rear wheels 2.5 cant and the front dominant wheel 1.5. The rear wheels where adjusted fine so they rode on the axle heads. Any adjustment of the front axle would actually make the car drift opposite the rail or make the "floating" wheel make contact to the track or my alignment board. I did trim 1/16" on the dominant axle side. I tried several different axle arrangements placing 1.5 cant on the back and 2.5 on the front. 1.5 all the way around Except for making the car slower, I had the same results. I had COG 3/4" in front of the rear wheels. I noticed on one of Murph's that there was a weight on the dominant axle. I guess that helps with the drift adjustment? What am I missing? Leave the rears at 2.5 and adjust them like you said so the migrate out in both directions. Add more bend to the steer wheel..... maybe 3-4 degrees. and make sure it has positive cant.... opposite of the rears. Raise the lifted wheel a little more. Redrill if you can or you can gain some height by bending the axle. |
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Post by Murph on Jan 29, 2012 19:17:02 GMT -6
Look at 5K's post. pinewoodp.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=prohelp&action=display&thread=2474For positive cant on your front wheel, You want that front axle to be pointed down and and slightly in. More bend in the axle won't hurt you. It is just more sensitive to adjust the drift. Some Scouts use negative cant on the front wheel with the axle facing up. Additionally, ensure that you have clearance between the front axle inner hub and the body of the car. A clearance of a credit card will get you close.  |
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Post by squidhead on Jan 29, 2012 19:47:37 GMT -6
I used the derby worx axle guide to gap the wheels. I removed it from the block because the screw got in the way.
I turned the floating wheels axle upward. I also used the derby worx pro body jig to drill the holes, drilling the floater with the raised guide hole.
I definitely have to mess with the adjustment again on that car body.
We ended up using a straight runner with all 4 on the floor. We took first in the den and 3rd over all. If the format was combined speed for the 3 heats for the pack we would have took 1st there. We had consistent speed on all 3 heats. They dropped the lowest time from the 3 heats and only .001 second separated 1st 2nd and 3rd
Off to that thread.
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