Anyone try balancing the wheels? I have found a balance tool that uses magnets to suspend the wheel to determine if they are out of balance. I know that the Golden Rule every little bit helps, but I’m wondering if the wheels turn a high enough RPM for out of balance issues to come in to play.
Post by PinewoodPerformance on Nov 15, 2012 22:44:14 GMT -6
If you are using a "Stock" or "Precision Stock" type wheel you can balance it down to zero, it takes some time and very small amounts of counter weight. Your time will be better spent on perfecting your alignment , a good axle/hub bore polishing and lubricants first.
Thanks for the reply’s! My sun is two for two at Districts. He does a good job on the axels, but I think we can spend a little more time on wheel bore prep. I was worried about messing up the bore so we only polished each wheel for about 20 to 30 seconds. What do you recommend?
I saw the balancer and had conflicting thoughts. We spent a lot of time last year on wheels. We made a concentricity gauge and used the wheel shaver and hub tool. We weighed all wheels. My sun and I had a good time. We checked over 6 sets of wheels, he made a chart and used it to come up with 4 good ones. We polished and buffed the wheels with graphite. Just thought if we are going that far why not balance them?
At our race they project scale speeds based upon math, and we have been in the 208 MPH the last two years. The race director has been running the race for 9 years and said that they have never seen a 209 MPH run. That’s My suns goal this year!
The Wheel Bore - Use a Walgreens Q Tip and cut off the cotton ends. Make the cut at about 45 degrees with respect to the parallel direction to the Q tip shaft. - Put the Q Tip in a hand held drill and put a dab of plastic polish on the exposed Q Tip end. - Insert the Q Tip into the bore while the drill chuck is revolving at a very slow RPM. - Spin the Q Tip for about 10-20 seconds in the bore. You will hear squeaking noise. - If you remove material from the inner bore, go get another set of wheels. Otherwise, start with an old set of wheels to practice. - Wash out the wheel bores with water and blow out excess water. - Wax the wheel bore with your best car polish you have. If you have Tech Wax, it works well. Otherwise, use what you have in the garage. - You need a pipe cleaner to apply the wax to the bore. Most smoke shops or PWD vendors stock these. Use the soft cotton ones. - Cut the pipe cleaner in two pieces. - Insert one end of the pipe cleaner in hand held drill and apply wax to the exposed end. - Now, be real careful when inserting the pipe cleaner into the bore so you don't scratch the bore with the metal center of the pipe cleaner. - If you scratch the bore, throw out the wheel and use a new one. - Hint: Use a well lighted area when doing this procedure - Rotate the pipe cleaner in the bore on a higher speed for about 20 seconds max. Stop for about 5 to 10 seconds between spinning the pipe cleaner in the bore. - Stop hand held drill. Slowly remove the pipe cleaner from the bore. You might want to remove the pipe cleaner from the hand held drill before you do this so it is easier to remove the pipe cleaner without scratching the bore. - Let wax dry. Use a new pipe cleaner and remove the wax by revolving the pipe cleaner in the bore. You can do this by hand or use hand held drill. -Your wheel bore is now ready for racing!
Hi Scott, The best wax for preparing bores is very expensive and, for a Scout Level, is not required. Tech Wax works well. Synthetic waxes are very good. Liquid Glass is a favorite in pro racing and is not that expensive.
Turtle wax is carnuba and lasts long but does not give you the optimal coefficient of friction (cof).
However, you could probably use Turtle Wax on a well aligned car and do very well.
Alignment rules in PWD along with bore and axle preparation. These little cars can be confusing. I always recommend that a Scout build several cars and run the fastest one.
There are people who can help you and this forum will do this. I will be posting videos and pictures of ways of getting speed.
Murph, after waxing the bore do i still do the same graphite process? just want to make sure that the wax and graphite wont fight each other? I know it mostlikley on here some where, but what is your griphite process? Thanks a bunch!
Scott, Yes, just add graphite after waxing bore and installing axle on the wheel. You don't have to burnish with graphite if you wax the bore. With the burnish process, you rotate a pipe cleaner, with graphite, for a certain period of time.
This process is now "dated" with the progression of bore preparation methods.
Several years ago, PWDR Racing (Pro Racing) had a division where you had to use graphite. The fastest guys were essentially blowing everyone away by using wax instead of burnishing.