I recently worked with Balsa and i got a nice piece from midwest balsa and i had not trouble using a dremel and router bit for the removal of wood for the weight area. I also used the lowest speed setting and took my time.
I am having more of a issue with the looks, fuzz. So the paint and prep are on-going.
Post by Gravity Steve on Apr 17, 2008 19:08:51 GMT -6
Saw this too late! Ninja, the best way to seal balsa is with a nitrocellulose lacquer sanding sealer. The hobby shops call it airplane dope. You can buy it in quart sizes in the big box stores, for only a little more than the hobby shop will charge you for an 8-ounce bottle. Depending on how porous your wood is, it may require several coats. I use it on my pine cars, because it works so well. It also dries while you are watching! So, build, sand, build, sand, etc, all with a brush. You can have it flat and shiny in one day, by waiting 1/2 hour between coats. Then I just use good spray paint to finish off. Slicker'n'snot.
btw, airplane dope has some wikkid cool colors, too.
CORRECTION: I remember now that nitrocellulose lacquer isn't "flat" like the airplane-dope type sanding sealer. The sanding sealer I was thinking of is still usable, but it is NOT lacquer based, you can use regular paint thinner to clean your brush. Sorry about that.