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Post by Threader on Oct 22, 2004 11:52:25 GMT -6
Everything has a begining and every Pinecar starts with a block of wood. Not all blocks of wood are created equal which is why we start with the block. Start with a good wood square and check the block to make sure it's square on all corners. Having a block of wood that's square will help in the overall construction of you car. In a stock PC race you normally have rules that say you must use the pre-made axle slots. If this is the case then you MUST check to make sure the slots have not been cut crooked from the factory. There are many tools to do this or you can use the fine markings on your square to make sure they measure the same distance apart on both sides. Also check to make sure the distance is the same from the back of the block and the front. Input from you pro's out there?
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Post by Sssnake on Nov 11, 2004 19:28:41 GMT -6
Before doing any cutting, decide on your weight methods and the room needed to install them. to be really competitive you should try to keep the finished bare block well under 1OZ. Some of my cars have weighed in at less than .4 OZ. Why is this important? The more weight you add in a dense compact package will increase performance, this is based on physics principles. If you are interested in these principals, I suggest you browse an alternate board, where these topics are often discussed. If you intend to build a hollow bodied car, do all your exterior shaping and sanding first. Then spray the car with any good ,fast drying enamel (such as krylon), colors don't matter as you will primer and paint the car later. Build up a lot of coats. After the paint dries do your routering. the enamel will actually be like a hard shell that will allow you to remove more material and also act as a warning sign when it becomes visible if you cut too deep.
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Post by Sssnake on Nov 16, 2004 22:48:26 GMT -6
Shapes to consider when designing your car:
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Post by Sssnake on Dec 2, 2004 15:32:32 GMT -6
If you intend to bake your block to reduce moisture weight, do it before any shaping. Then square your block up before you do any axle drilling or shaping.
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Post by Threader on Dec 2, 2004 16:05:51 GMT -6
Sssnake,
I have read about baking the block.
Have you baked a few? If so what kind of benefits have you found?
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Post by Sssnake on Dec 2, 2004 18:35:29 GMT -6
Depending on the block, you can reduce the weight by 30% or more. Also the dryer block is less likely to warp or raise grain when painting.
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Post by Sssnake on Dec 4, 2004 7:20:38 GMT -6
Remember when shaping your block that most starting pins are 3/8" or less in diameter. Why is this important? If you make the nose of your car too narrow (or too rounded) you may have difficulty staging your car. Also it's possible for narrow front ends to be missed by electronic finish line sensors.
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GILLS
Pine Head
Posts: 49
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Post by GILLS on Dec 8, 2004 20:16:03 GMT -6
Depending on the block, you can reduce the weight by 30% or more. Also the dryer block is less likely to warp or raise grain when painting. Most pwd car blocks are made from spruce or pine. Which one would you bake and how?
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Post by Sssnake on Dec 8, 2004 21:13:14 GMT -6
Either one can be reduced in moisture content, just like kiln drying. Even kiln dried lumber can be reduced. just put the block on spacers on a cookie sheet to allow air around the block and place in an oven at medium heat ( no more than 350 degrees), I usually set the oven at 250. Then bake the block for a couple hours. Weigh your block before baking and after, you'll see a weight drop. Reducing the weight of the wood lets you increase added denser weight that can be more concentrated. I haven't baked a block since I started doing hollow bodied cars, the weight reduction in the wood that's left after hollowing, just didn't seem worth the effort.
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Post by ktak56 on Mar 23, 2005 21:24:59 GMT -6
Are there instructions somewhere on how to hollow out the body?
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Post by phildefiant on Mar 23, 2005 21:31:34 GMT -6
I've used several techniques, including jig saws, scroll saws and forstner bits. I never got up the nerve to use the router however. ;D
My favorite technique is to design my cars in a way that allows me to use a drill and a scroll saw to cut away excess material. I then use good ole' wood glue to assemble the final product.
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Post by patmanruls on Mar 23, 2005 21:32:01 GMT -6
Are there instructions somewhere on how to hollow out the body? I don't know everyone's techniques, but I use my dremel tool. Dremel offers and attachment that turns your rotary tool into a router. It has a piece that will screw on to the end of the tool that will help you set the depth. Make sure the set screw is tight before you apply the tool to the wood. Draw the lines around the area you want to cut out, then go to town. Very inexpensive solution in my book. I have read where others use a drill press to do it also.. hope this helps.
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Post by flyingthingyroach on Jun 22, 2005 9:26:13 GMT -6
Shapes to consider when designing your car: Question for sssnake regarding above. New at your Forum and enjoying the info very much. My Scout is long grown up but he cleaned up years ago winning regional and state three years in a row. Never defeated. That's another story though. We ran cars with the streamline half body and a stock shape block of wood. On our test track, all things equal we could never find a difference. Question, with all this new high tech measuring equipment what is the difference in inches at the finish line with two equally prepared cars, an excellent run by both, no bouncing off the center rail. i.e. the difference air drag would cause in inches. Thanks, flying c-roach, name of one of my son's cars with whiskers and all.
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Post by warthog on Jun 22, 2005 20:16:38 GMT -6
I'm not sure if this is exactly what you are looking for, but this site has some testing results relating to aerodynamics as well as several other variables. I don't think he was using whiskers in his tests though. pack146.nova.org/pinewood/expres1.html
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