Best way to add weight

[brianc]

Since the Tungsten will cost about $20 for my son's Cub Scout car, I was hoping to re-use the weight after the race is done, but I don't want to ruin the car in the process. Does anyone have any good suggestions on how best to add weight so that it can be removed later. We're planning on a wing car, about 3/8-1/2 inch thick.

Thanks,
Brian

[sporty]

You might try hot glue, I use epoxy however I end up destroying most of the time. But a few times I was able to dremel out around.

But you might try hot glue or hot wax in the cavity before adding the weight. Do not if it will hold or not though.

[Sappington R]

Brianc,
I can appreciate your desire to have and adjustable weight system, especially if using tungsten. It can get expensive when you start building multiple cars. Here are a few things to consider;

1. Make sure that the weight is secure and is not "rattling" around inside a cavity, especially a plastic canister- you could put it in clay or vinyl spackling (dries very light and easy to remove). The "rattling" will cause vibration which will absorb energy and slow you down.

2. Use a larger drill bit like 7/16" to make your weight holes- the tungsten cylinders will fit nicely. You can drill vertically or horizontally, then plug your ends with wood doll + finish with wood putty.

I hope this helps. Feel free to ask any other questions.

Sappingtonr

[d fisher]

you can also rout out the bottom of your car add some 3m tape up inside of it if you use the cubes then add a piece of duck tape or some other type of strong tape then when your done remove the tape and pull your weights back out.

[brianc]

I was orginally planning on using hot glue, and they prying them out later. But I think that they tape method might work better.

Thanks,
Brian

[quadad]

My plan for reusing tungsten weight is based on the 0.5 Oz tungsten plates that you can screw down, and the tungsten powder that is very cheap. I will put plates at several spots. In front of the rear axle though I plan to hollow out a generous hole, and allow for a shoulder to put the screws into. Then I would stuff in the 2 oz zip lock bag of Tunsten powder and tungsten beads, as required, followed with some sponge or similar holding material, and then screw down the tungsten plate on the bottom of the car.

This makes it adjustable and re-useable.

[schmidy]

I have successfully used a large screw head, cut down to length. Which is used as a tight cap to the reservoir where the tungsten pellets are. I used a piece of cloth to jamb in the hole to keep the pieces tight and not rattle around before screwing the cap on.

[roosclan]

brianc said:

Since the Tungsten will cost about $20 for my son's Cub Scout car, I was hoping to re-use the weight after the race is done, but I don't want to ruin the car in the process. Does anyone have any good suggestions on how best to add weight so that it can be removed later. We're planning on a wing car, about 3/8-1/2 inch thick.

Thanks,
Brian

One of my sons is doing a thin design (1/4 in front to 3/8 in back) with tungsten cubes for weight. Next year I will have 3 boys in scouts, so reusing tungsten will be important for our budget.

We will be using some white glue to hold the cubes in the hollowed out weight pockets once we figure out where to place them. We will then glue a 1/16" thick piece of basswood over the pockets in case any of the weights come loose. After the race, we can pry off the basswood and remove the weights.

[Go Bubba Go]

brianc said:

Since the Tungsten will cost about $20 for my son's Cub Scout car, I was hoping to re-use the weight after the race is done, but I don't want to ruin the car in the process. Does anyone have any good suggestions on how best to add weight so that it can be removed later. We're planning on a wing car, about 3/8-1/2 inch thick.

Thanks,
Brian

First look at the pics I posted under this recent post: pinewoodp.proboards29.com/index.cgi?action=display&board=bodierookie&thread=1200882273&page=1#1201119714

We glued the weights in with CA (superglue) and filled and painted over them, but you could cut out a similar cavity for temporary storage of Tungsten cubes (I would still use cubes instead of plates - you get 4 oz. for your 20 bucks instead of just 3 oz.) and create "removable" covers for the cavity.

I suggest you buy some 1/64" or 1/32" aircraft plywood to make covers for the cavity (or you could cut some thin panels from the remainder of your block if you have a good saw and a steady hand).

SuperGlue the cubes to one of the covers (you could have the weight suspended from above or held up from underneath, your choice). I would probably suspend from above with the cover underneath providing "insurance" in case any of the weight came loose from the top.

Mount the covers to the car either will small wood screws or with glue. You could make an extra cover that mimics the one to which you attach the weights. At the end of the season, remove the weighted cover and replace with the "extra" unweighted cover.

A few of my cars (I won't say which ones ) have removable panels like this. Typically the reason for the removable panel is not that I need to remove weight, etc., but that it allows me to paint the panel (or piece) a different color and have a crisp line to my two-tone paint job (I don't get as good a results with masking tape - I always seem to get a run somewhere...).

Ironically enough just last night I had to remove a panel that covers some electronics for one of my "wired" cars. With a little TLC and a hobby knife, I was able to remove the panel, solder a speaker wire that had come loose, and replace the panel without any noticeable damage.

Bubba

[sporty]

I have found using tungsten cubes and epoxy. I just grab my dremel and remove it when done with the car. This does create a issue of sometimes wrecking the car.

Which usually if I am taking the weight out. It's for lack of performance and I am moving onto another design and weight set up.

A pair of needle nose pliers works well for breaking the cubes back into singles and a grind or scrape here and they look like knew with the exacto.

Sporty

[Gravity Steve]

I've used old tire weights, and melted them into the body with my propane torch. Definitely not a "Scout built" method, but that was for my first-ever adult PWD at work. This way, I was able to place the weight precisely where I wanted it. Free is the best price- I got the weights from a Pep Boys auto shop. They were happy to get rid of the weights. You have to be sure not to get the body too hot, but that's fairly simple. The weight doesn't have to be removed later, since it is so cheap. An alternative would be to make a small mold in the shape you want, and cast the plugs, which the kids can then put in. Health caveat for lead- make sure they wash up afterward. I used a wedge body, 1/4" in the front and 3/4" in the back, with one wheel (front left) off the track. Plenty of room for the weight that way, and I was able to keep it to the right rear to ensure keeping the left front off the track.

[srcracing]

brianc said:

Since the Tungsten will cost about $20 for my son's Cub Scout car, I was hoping to re-use the weight after the race is done, but I don't want to ruin the car in the process. Does anyone have any good suggestions on how best to add weight so that it can be removed later. We're planning on a wing car, about 3/8-1/2 inch thick.

Thanks,
Brian

[Smokinjoesracing]

Drill the holes from top to bottom. Drill them so the point (only) of the drill comes through the bottom. This will come in handy to push the weights out later. Also place a block of wood under the car as you do this to prevent thin spots from cracking. place a bit of putty or WUTTY in the hole B4 placing the weight cylinder. If you cut your car correctly you can conceal your weight with some reflective tape on top. This will also help to hold them in if the putty fails to do so.

[ProQuest]

Hey brianc:

If you go to the tread called "Car Photos" and look at the post called "Meet Katana" you will see what I did to handle the issue of removing weight. You will see tiny holes drilled in a pattern at the rear end of the chassis. These holes are for removing weight if desired. Take a look. This is not necessarily the best approach, just mine.

ProQuest/Steve H.