|
Post by Old Salem Racing on Mar 26, 2007 9:48:20 GMT -6
I have a question for Racer X, would it be possible to make me a pro body tool with the holes app 1/8 higher to lower the car? and make one with a 4 degree angle so the wheels will be canted?
Thanks in advance.......Brad
|
|
Mr. Slick
Head in the Pine
www.PwdRacing.com
Posts: 151
|
Post by Mr. Slick on Mar 26, 2007 13:35:28 GMT -6
I don't know that a 4 degree cant is the perfect angle, but, the angle of the hole that you drill can be adjusted by putting a shim (or two) under the block of wood on other side of the tool.
This allows for virtually an endless number of axle angles.
The raised side can be at more of an angle than the other side too.
Have you tried the "raised hole" to use for all of the axles in order to "lower" the car body?
|
|
234
Addicted to Speed
Posts: 79
|
Post by 234 on Mar 26, 2007 14:18:31 GMT -6
Hey, I wrote Racer-X and asked the very same question last year. Racer-X recommended that I use a piece of credit card under one end of the tool to make the cant; however, I have found that a credit card does not make enough cant for my liking. After a lot of trial and error I have discovered that you can use a Popsicle stick under one end of the Pro-Body Tool and clamp the side you are going to be drilling. When using the Pro-Body tool I recommend that you always use a Pin-Vise www.ehobbytools.com/en-us/dept_8.html and drill the holes by hand. I agree with you on raising the hole just a little as I have drilled through the bottom of quite a few blocks trying to get it right. Hope this helps a little. I'm sure there are a lot of others that have tried similar techniques so lets try to help each other out and get some more comments. For those of you who are not familiar with a Pin-Vise I have included a hyperlink to help you understand what I am talking about. 234
|
|
maxx
Addicted to Speed
Posts: 83
|
Post by maxx on Mar 27, 2007 11:29:19 GMT -6
Hello 234,
Maybe you can comment on why you think the holes should be drilled with a pin vise rather than say a hand drill or even a dremel tool.
I too would like to see a modified "Pro Body Tool" with a deeper throat to allow the car to sit closer to the silly 3/8" clearance rule that a lot of us have to build to,or better yet one with an adjustabel base ;D.
Maxx
|
|
HyperDrive
Head in the Pine
Magnum Force
Posts: 243
|
Post by HyperDrive on Mar 27, 2007 14:02:52 GMT -6
I have a question for Racer X, would it be possible to make me a pro body tool with the holes app 1/8 higher to lower the car? and make one with a 4 degree angle so the wheels will be canted? Thanks in advance.......Brad I asked about the same thing last year to Randy at maximum velocity. He said that since the pro body tool is mass produced for derby worx by whoever where the machinery is already set up a certain way that it would not be cost efficient for new tooling to be produced for a tool with 1/8" adjusted holes and that it would take too much time for a worker in the factory to have to reset up the machine to drill holes in each different place. I don't know, I say scrap the old tooling and just produce a new pro body tool with the holes deeper.
|
|
maxx
Addicted to Speed
Posts: 83
|
Post by maxx on Mar 27, 2007 18:16:11 GMT -6
I have a question for Racer X, would it be possible to make me a pro body tool with the holes app 1/8 higher to lower the car? and make one with a 4 degree angle so the wheels will be canted? Thanks in advance.......Brad I asked about the same thing last year to Randy at maximum velocity. He said that since the pro body tool is mass produced for derby worx by whoever where the machinery is already set up a certain way that it would not be cost efficient for new tooling to be produced for a tool with 1/8" adjusted holes and that it would take too much time for a worker in the factory to have to reset up the machine to drill holes in each different place. I don't know, I say scrap the old tooling and just produce a new pro body tool with the holes deeper. I would think the tooling could stay the same and all you would really need to do is drill a set of holes a bit higher in the body of the tool. I would think that with the progression of designs that are trying to get the weight lower in the car that there is a bigger demand for this than most would think.I know I would be willing to spend quite a bit more for something I thought was more useful to me.Like I have stated earlier something with an adustable base would be ideal,would allow you to choose any height for the axle holes that you choose. Maxx
|
|
|
Post by RacerX on Mar 28, 2007 9:25:18 GMT -6
The Pro Body Tool II is designed for both drilling new holes and for pre-drilling and straightening slots. The height is set at .088" so it will work both ways. For you guys that want it at around 1/8th. or .125" it is only gaining .037" in ride heigth. If you are really wanting to snuggle the weight CG down, create a belly pan, that is what I do on some cars. I have set the weights low in the body, then shapped a bottom pannel out of balse to skin it over smooth and low with the weights.
You have to keep in mind when we designed the Pro Body Tool that it has to work for everyone and wheel diameter will ultimately determine ride heigth, So what is the builder doing to his wheels? A standard BSA wheel is 1.200" WIRL and PWD Racing say 31mm, we turn our Pro Ultra Lites and Pro Inertia Lites to 1.175", Stan Pope allows his group to "sand" them to 1.150" and some groups have no wheel restrictions but ultimately they all have to clear the same 3/8".
I haven't had that many request for higher holes, but maybe on the new Pro Body Jig this fall.
Race Fast
Racer X
|
|
Mr. Slick
Head in the Pine
www.PwdRacing.com
Posts: 151
|
Post by Mr. Slick on Mar 28, 2007 20:24:49 GMT -6
How about a super jig that is adjustable in three dimensions. . a jig that has 3/4 inch height for the holes from the base.
Add two bolts through the base near the edges to allow for adjustable height. This would also allow for doing the holes at a slant by having one side set higher than the other. (Rotation along the long axis - front to back)
Next adjustment would be side to side. The tool would have to be wider with two adjusting bolts on each side to allow for desired toe-in/out. (rotation about the vertical axis - end to end)
So. now that the jig is much wider, make it four bolts from the bottom to allow for rotation the long way. . . front higher than back, back higher than front. (rotation about the width - side to side axis)
Add micrometer readouts to ensure repeatability and make sure to keep it under $20. ;D
|
|
maxx
Addicted to Speed
Posts: 83
|
Post by maxx on Mar 28, 2007 21:06:19 GMT -6
How about a super jig that is adjustable in three dimensions. . a jig that has 3/4 inch height for the holes from the base. Add two bolts through the base near the edges to allow for adjustable height. This would also allow for doing the holes at a slant by having one side set higher than the other. (Rotation along the long axis - front to back) Next adjustment would be side to side. The tool would have to be wider with two adjusting bolts on each side to allow for desired toe-in/out. (rotation about the vertical axis - end to end) So. now that the jig is much wider, make it four bolts from the bottom to allow for rotation the long way. . . front higher than back, back higher than front. (rotation about the width - side to side axis) Add micrometer readouts to ensure repeatability and make sure to keep it under $20. ;D If RacerX builds this I will gladly pay the $20 And then some ;D ;D ;D Maxx
|
|
Mr. Slick
Head in the Pine
www.PwdRacing.com
Posts: 151
|
Post by Mr. Slick on Mar 29, 2007 7:45:20 GMT -6
Was thinking(dreaming?) this over and what is really needed is to have a laser to make the holes instead of a drill bit that can deflect due to grain/wood variances.
BTW, 5 micrometers should do it. 2 on one side to control rotation about vertical axis. Three on the bottom in a triangle to control the rotation in the other two dimensions. Digital would be nice.
Maybe the entire thing could be driven by stepper motors instead of just bolts and the micrometers would feed back to a computer to ensure proper placement. One the block is in the proper place the computer would select the proper lens for the laser (regular BSA, Awana, Needle, variable?) to get the correct hole diameter and then fire the laser for the correct duration to get the proper depth.
I suppose that if we get this far we should add the control for the distance from the ends of the block too.
For the computer controlled model I would suggest $49.95 (without the computer of course!) ;D
|
|
|
Post by RacerX on Mar 29, 2007 8:09:55 GMT -6
Slick,
You got me thinking so I am going to put in a call to HAAS CNC to see if they want to co-design the new PRO BODY CNC. with Derby Worx this season.
Why I bet we could put you in one for under $30k. Who wants to be the first on their block to have one? Imagine the tool envy!!!
|
|
|
Post by Lucky 13 on Mar 29, 2007 8:32:15 GMT -6
I do have to agree with Old Salem Racer. I would like to see a Pro Body Tool with multiple holes on each side to adjust the placement of the axle hole. This would help with canting, clearance and raising a wheel.
|
|
maxx
Addicted to Speed
Posts: 83
|
Post by maxx on Mar 29, 2007 9:10:11 GMT -6
I do have to agree with Old Salem Racer. I would like to see a Pro Body Tool with multiple holes on each side to adjust the placement of the axle hole. This would help with canting, clearance and raising a wheel. Instead of multiple holes how about a deeper than needed throat on the body of the tool and then maybe some different sized pieces of shim stock that would be secured to the base of the tool to make the hole height adjustable,or you could do some thumb screws to raise or lower a base plate.Just tossing some ideas around ;D. Maxx
|
|
234
Addicted to Speed
Posts: 79
|
Post by 234 on Mar 29, 2007 19:54:22 GMT -6
Here is a little Photoshop magic that shows how a Pro-Body Tool could easily be modified for three different sizes of axles including needles. 234
|
|
|
Post by RacerX on Mar 30, 2007 8:29:40 GMT -6
I wish the back shop and photo shop would work together.
Ok, Q: how high would be a enough? 1/8", 3/16". I am thinking 4deg. on the cant, but what are you thinking for the 3 holes? #1 would be a # 44 straight or canted? #2 would be a needle axle straight or canted? #3 ??
Been thinking about doing the jig with different holes than the standard Pro Body Tool that way the standard one is available for slots and reg. BSA.
Everyone's input is appreciated.
Racer X
|
|
Mr. Slick
Head in the Pine
www.PwdRacing.com
Posts: 151
|
Post by Mr. Slick on Mar 30, 2007 14:21:01 GMT -6
How about something with a variable angle fo those of us who can't decide? Have a slot that goes from level to 10 degree slope. Have a slider on the outside to align the two sides of the tool at the same angle. In the diagram the red part is a pin that helps the slider stay square with the tool. There would have to be a mechanism to fasten the slider to a specific spot, maybe a couple of little set screws on the bottom. If the depth of the tool was enlarged you could use a couple of bolts to adjust the height of the car bottom too.
|
|
maxx
Addicted to Speed
Posts: 83
|
Post by maxx on Mar 30, 2007 14:49:51 GMT -6
If you used the adjustable bottom plate idea with screws at both sides to adjust the height this would also allow you to adjust the angle of the axle by setting the base on incline.Would be similar to placing the credit card or popsicle stick under the block.
Maxx
|
|
Mr. Slick
Head in the Pine
www.PwdRacing.com
Posts: 151
|
Post by Mr. Slick on Mar 30, 2007 22:51:26 GMT -6
but when I suggested adding the micrometers repeatability, the extra screws for adjustment in all 3 dimensions and the pulsed laser with variable diameter beam it seemed to be lost due to the suggested automation with the the stepper motors and computer control. . . I didn't even suggest a fuel cell power source for the system to allow operation when the lights go out.
|
|
|
Post by ninjarabbi1997 on Mar 31, 2007 17:08:40 GMT -6
Not sure if this is cost effective or even a good idea, but...what about putting some kind of steel bushing in the holes to keep the hole from getting out of shape. When my kids use the tool and they pull it out, I often see aluminum shavings mixed in with the wood shavings.
Jim
|
|
|
Post by ProQuest on Mar 31, 2007 17:55:36 GMT -6
Jim:
Acutally, bushings are a great idea. But they would have to be tool steel, and are very expensive. Purchased individually they would run around $13.00 each. Add the cost of installing them in the tool, and your talking $100. There would undoubtedly be some price break on a large quantitly purchase of bushings, but if you want a tool with several different size holes/bushings, your talking real $$$. I've looked into having one made.
While I have you, where does your name come from? Just curious.
ProQuest/Steve H.
|
|