ichiban
Head in the Pine
Posts: 138
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Post by ichiban on Feb 12, 2009 15:01:27 GMT -6
I tried using this tool with my pro-axle press II for steering the car into the rail and didn't see any results. I ended up having to bend the axles using the pro-axle press and taping the axle head directly with the hammer to affect the steering.
Is the bend created with this tool very noticable because I saw very little bend if any?
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Sappington R
Head in the Pine
"The Sappster" 10oz
Posts: 210
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Post by Sappington R on Feb 12, 2009 18:50:42 GMT -6
Ichiban, 1.5 or 2.5 is a small amount of bend. If you are using bsa wheels & axles it's difficult to see and neg camb.
Before you dis. the RR tool I would consider this:
1. Roll your newly bent axles on a flat surface and see if they act any differently than a straight axle.
2. put #44 drill bits in your 3 contact axle holes to check to see if your holes are drilled straight- just eyeball it- you will know.
If your holes are out of alignment then 1.5-2.5 will not help you.
you may wan to check out the pro-body jig for perfect hole drilling.
Just my opinion- the RR tool is "THE BOMB'
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ichiban
Head in the Pine
Posts: 138
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Post by ichiban on Feb 12, 2009 19:32:11 GMT -6
How many inches over what distance on an alignment board do you get typically with the angles provided?
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Post by roosclan on Feb 12, 2009 23:16:48 GMT -6
How many inches over what distance on an alignment board do you get typically with the angles provided? I would think that would depend on how you tune the FDW. Having the cant on the axle but not turning it would be the same as having a straight axle. It's the turning counter/clockwise that steers the car -- more turning = more inches in a shorter distance.
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Sappington R
Head in the Pine
"The Sappster" 10oz
Posts: 210
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Post by Sappington R on Feb 13, 2009 7:24:21 GMT -6
ICHI, the ClanMan is right. However, you can also create a little steer by "turning" the rear bent axles- but be sure to observe no migration on the rear wheels to and fro the head of the axle- you always want to axles to stay away from the body. IMO- this is one of the most critical steps in tuning and probably the most overlooked by early builders- it's very time consuming but will pay huge dividends if done right.
Regarding Steer: 1.5 on the FDW should give you all the steer you need. Depending upon how aggressive your C.O.M is will determine what you need. A good rule of thumb is about 1-2 inches over a six foot roll.
I hope this helps.
Sapp.
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Post by Ricerocket on Feb 13, 2009 16:49:13 GMT -6
I have two axle presses. I had an old one for about 4 years. When the RR tool came out, I didn't want to take any chances with incompatibility, so I ordered a new axle press with my RR tool. The new axle press just didn't look right. The hole in the middle didn't make a perfect circle like my old press did. The RR tool didn't touch the axle. I ended up using the old press with the RR tool, but the 1.5 setting bent it more like 5 degrees... I have sent the new axle press and the RR tool back to Bill at Derbyworx. He is willing to stand behind his product. That is why I own almost every tool he makes!!
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ichiban
Head in the Pine
Posts: 138
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Post by ichiban on Feb 13, 2009 17:02:24 GMT -6
I purchased my axle press II late 2007 and the rail rider tool late 2008 both from MaxVel. I was wondering if my rider tool was bad but maybe my press is. I'll try contacting Derby Worx through email.
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Post by srcracing on Mar 24, 2009 19:50:24 GMT -6
well i just recieved the R/R tool and the press,,ive got 3 cars that have straight axle holes and i wanted to convert the rears to a neg cant,,well im not seeing very much bend at all in the axle,i have to chuck it up in my drill to see it, i yhought about milling one side of the press just slightly to get more bend on the axle,,cause i can set one of the cars next to one that i drilled at a 2.5 degree cant and the other car looks like theyre straight,,so im not sure if the tolerances are just off on the tool or what.
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Post by RacerX on Mar 26, 2009 9:08:50 GMT -6
well i just recieved the R/R tool and the press,,ive got 3 cars that have straight axle holes and i wanted to convert the rears to a neg cant,,well im not seeing very much bend at all in the axle,i have to chuck it up in my drill to see it, i yhought about milling one side of the press just slightly to get more bend on the axle,,cause i can set one of the cars next to one that i drilled at a 2.5 degree cant and the other car looks like theyre straight,,so im not sure if the tolerances are just off on the tool or what. A few questions first: 1. What axles are you using? 2. How are you prepping them? What we are finding is that during the de-burring process of a B.S.A. axle some folks are removing too much material from the running surface of the axle. This will reduce the degree of bend since we are clamping the axle on the untreated (larger) portion of the axle and the Pro Rail Rider Tool is contacting the axle to bend it on the treated (smaller) portion thus reducing the bend potential. Cure: Cut a strip off of a business card approx 3/16" wide, wrap it around the axle at the head and bend as normal. This works great to cure slightly undersized axles or for builders that want to use different bends for testing. This will now give you the option of : 1.5 and 2.5 deg std. and 3 and 4 deg with a shim. Also it is a added level of protection to the axle for those who are nervous about their finely polished axles, masking tape is a great guard as well. To check your tool for a problem: Insert half of the Pro Axle Press into the Pro Rail Rider Tool, at the point where the machined groove in the 2 meet they should be the same height or the axle press should be slightly higher than the rail rider tool (this prevents shearing of the axle) if they are not, PLEASE let us know and we will gladly take care of it for you. Builder note: Once the car is built and you are doing your final tuning, your adjustments should be VERY SMALL!!!!!!! I almost listen for the axle to just slightly creak in the wood and that is an adjustment!! Ask any on the guys who track tune, thousandths of an inch of rotation can equal big changes in track and test board results. Also we highly recommend the new Maximum Velocity axle pulling pliers for adjusting and tuning your cars. There is no better way to safely and accurately turn an axle plus remove it. (This is not TOTALLY a Max-V plug, they do work that well ) I hope this helps and as always please feel free to contact us through the web site: www.Derbyworx.com for any help you need. Race Fast Racer X
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Post by srcracing on Mar 26, 2009 20:51:50 GMT -6
i think you just hit the nail on the head,,,the diameter of the axle,,they are bsa axles,polished to 8000,then polished with mothers. you know i really didnt think of the diameter, but what you say will work tho. what i did is very carefully took a little off one side of press on a belt sander,,but only one side,,that way i still have the option of the oreginal specs ,,(just flip it over),,so all is well..i primarily drill canted axle holes anyway,, i will try on non polished axles tonight and see. thanks,,,steve
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Post by the woodbutcher on Mar 28, 2009 16:55:22 GMT -6
Racer X - I'm with you on the diameter of the axle. I found myself getting frustrated at the persistence of those little buggers ... Even using my tiny files, you could still see remnants of the burs where the head meets the axle. Also, I had one that was not round, and another that the head was ovaled The clarification I am hoping to get is, even after I get the bend in the axle, it doesn't seem to translate onto the track. To explain a little more, with the car held up and viewing from the front, you can see the camber. When you place it down, however, that camber disappears. Sorry I don't have the picture of the truck in the air, but here it is on the table. The rear wheels are cambered, but you can't tell the front is. My theory is that this camber is negated by the difference in size of the axle and the wheel bore. More angle would need to be put on the axle to overcome this difference. Am I going the right way with this, or am I getting lost
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khouse
Head in the Pine
Posts: 199
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Post by khouse on Mar 28, 2009 20:52:37 GMT -6
You want the rear wheels to be at a slight angle when the weight is applied. This makes the wheel only touch the track on the inner wheel sliver. Plus you need to adjust the axle to make the wheel gravitate to the axle head in BOTH forward and reverse. Try the K-groove for adjustments.
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ljo
Green Lumber
Posts: 13
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Post by ljo on Feb 7, 2013 23:32:22 GMT -6
Wouldn't it be easier to put a straight nail into an angled hole, than bending nails?
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Post by RacerX on Feb 8, 2013 8:40:11 GMT -6
Wouldn't it be easier to put a straight nail into an angled hole, than bending nails? You can do that if you like, but you are locked in with it with no adjustment and most do not have the equipment to do it proper. There is a bit of speed to be found in the rear of the car, especially when track tuning.
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