khouse
Head in the Pine
Posts: 199
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Post by khouse on Dec 5, 2009 10:14:00 GMT -6
If your running on a good track like a Besttrack your COM is too conservative. No more than 3/4 in front of the rear axle. I suggest to remove as much wood on the front of the car and add your weight all the way back on the bottom side. A picture would be nice.
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Post by DerbyDoc.com on Dec 5, 2009 11:46:07 GMT -6
i need help.....my car is already finished and find i could use .100 oz of wieght, i have flat tungston weight at the very bottom end of rear of car, should i put 3/16 cube and tungston putty weight on top of existing weight which will be 1/2 inch above bottom of car and at the very end or put same weight in front of existing flat 1/2 inch wide tungston but at the bottom of car,so question is higher at very end or at very bottom and just in f/o rear axel. the COM is 1-1/8" in f/o rear axel and weight is 121.5 oz in front and 368.5 oz in rear. since the car is finished (painted,decal,and polyyurethane) i would rather put weight under car (less body damage) but i don't want to sacrifice speed. my grandson and I thank you, SPEED GT 1/10 of an ounce isnt going to make a difference. Id say keep the car as it is and focus on getting the alignment dialed in. 1/10 of an ounce is very minimal but a well tuned alignment is priceless. That can make the difference between a solid running car and a winning car. Good luck
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Post by Derby Monkey on Dec 5, 2009 11:49:04 GMT -6
This is a pretty good example... Our Starfighter car with a Lester body is lightened on the front by removing a lot of wood. The body is only 1/4" thick. We then stack 1/4" tungsten cubes in the very back. It creates a 1/2" COM
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Post by rpcarpe on Mar 5, 2010 11:19:28 GMT -6
For that last .1 oz of weight, I suggest lead tape from a golf shop. It looks like duct tape but has lead in it. Golfers use it balance out their clubs. Use the tape to cover any non-aero weights. Good luck.
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