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Post by atlasbuster on Jan 2, 2008 15:00:31 GMT -6
I have heard that you can use wet sanding between primer/paint coats. What are the advantages of this over dry sanding? Are there any? atlasbuster
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Post by DerbyDoc.com on Jan 2, 2008 17:00:16 GMT -6
I have heard that you can use wet sanding between primer/paint coats. What are the advantages of this over dry sanding? Are there any? atlasbuster It keeps the sandpaper from clogging up. And it leaves a nice smooth finish
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Post by roosclan on Mar 6, 2008 21:32:54 GMT -6
I have heard that you can use wet sanding between primer/paint coats. What are the advantages of this over dry sanding? Are there any? atlasbuster It keeps the sandpaper from clogging up. And it leaves a nice smooth finish How does one wet sand wood? Since I have to use the axle slots, should I make sure primer gets in them to seal things before trying to wet sand?
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Post by Derby Worx Pro Team on Mar 6, 2008 21:58:06 GMT -6
Wet sanding wood is not a good thing. The wood will swell. My recommendation to you would be to dry sand the wood with 600, then primer to seal the wood. I would not try to make sure the primer was in the slots. Most people here use Toothpicks to inserted into the holes/slots so that they remain the true dimension, it's easier to put your axles in that way. Wet sanding is not as wet as most people think it is. You really only want your sandpaper to be damp not drenched. I keep a small cup of water and dip the paper when needed. Adding a drop of dish detergent to your cup of water helps the paper "Glide" on the surface. Wet sanding the primer or color coat would be OK and is usually preferred to get an even coat of both paint and primer.
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Sappington R
Head in the Pine
"The Sappster" 10oz
Posts: 210
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Post by Sappington R on Mar 7, 2008 5:15:43 GMT -6
I have had decent results with #0000 steel wool and a tack cloth between coats (although my results may not show it Tried wet sanding too, but only after a few base coats with 1500- couldn't find anything higher than that in the store? BTW: anyone have experience with crocus cloth? I've got some but haven't figured out how to use it yet.
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JustaDad
Addicted to Speed
1Cor 9:24
Posts: 79
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Post by JustaDad on Mar 7, 2008 11:32:08 GMT -6
For cars that are small like PWD cars or models I fins that the best thing is, now don't judge me fr making this suggestion, a "nail buffing pad." They usually have them at beauty supply stores for a good price. What is nice about them is usually they have a foam core and the grits progress from 600 to 1500 to 3000 as you turn them.
The other more macho option is to go to an auto paint supply house. They will have grits to 15000. These are used to remove the haze that you will get on clear plastic headlight covers. Works great, but the costs is higher.
Ok to keep my name clear. I'm married to a ex-hair dresser and she showed me how the nail buffer worked and I applied it to more manly things.
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Post by Welsh Racing on Mar 7, 2008 11:56:49 GMT -6
"Ok to keep my name clear. I'm married to a ex-hair dresser and she showed me how the nail buffer worked and I applied it to more manly things." Thats funny. Good idea though
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Post by Gravity Steve on Mar 15, 2008 22:30:14 GMT -6
PWD racing is just like real life, I tells ya...I used Meguiar's plastic polish on my '05 Corolla's headlight buckets. My neighbor with a Lexus ($1200 eyeball replacement on that critter) was admiring that finish. I think you might have to start with wet-sanding with 1000-grit, probably, depending on how far in the smog has eaten...I've bought up to 2000-grit at Kragen.
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Post by Mayhem Miller on Mar 24, 2008 22:55:05 GMT -6
The trick I use is to be sure not to jump too much between grits of sandpaper. Too many people try to jump from wetsanding with 1000 grit up to 2000 or so, and sometimes they try to final finish with too rough of paper. Only jump up about 500 or so and final finish sand with 3000 grit, then use some microfinishing compound, then a good liquid wax.
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