|
Post by sporty on May 18, 2013 8:10:48 GMT -6
Hello,
Many of you new to building a pinewood derby car, our going to have many questions and be nervous abotu what you can do and what you can't do. Or (am I doing this right) question !
There our so many ways to become a better car builder ! Taking your time, having extra kits and parts are a key to ease being nervous and allows you to have a cushion, incase you make a mistake.
Take your time and enjoy the process. don't rush it and for your first time out, Dont try to making the all in wonder super speed demon car. Until you read and learn more. Go In steps !
That being said, there is plenty you can do you're first time out !
Sporty
|
|
|
Post by topspind on May 21, 2013 12:59:20 GMT -6
Seconding Sporty's comments and adding on a few thoughts...IMO
If you're only going to build one car a year (you don't have multiple kids or not going to do adult racing) the fastest and most cost effective way to build a competitive car is to do the following (adjust as necessary for your rules):
- Don't buy a bunch of specialized tools. There are lots of ways to get good results with common woodworking/metalworking tools you, grandpa, or a coworker has and would probably be glad to help you. - Buy a pre-drilled block and the lightest machined wheels allowed in your race. The pre-drilled block will give you good alignment (biggest building challenge), and the lighter wheels help get a jump on the other cars off the start (I'm sure you've seen cars that seem to fly off the start pin faster than all others... this is why). - Get your weights before you shape the car... and aim for body weight under 1ounce. Aerodynamics aren't supper important as long as you don't have something causing lots of drag. Place weights so you have .5 to .75 center of mass (look that up) to give plenty of horse power. Place weights low and concentrated in the body. - paint your car as far in advance as possible. Wet paint ='s wheel friction. Polish and lube the points where car body and wheels may rub (hopefully that's not happening for rears... see canting). - Polish axels (debatable about how much- 400 vs 2000 vs 10000 grit) - Remove outter hub (not critical IMO....requires a couple tools to do yourself and done for you typically on purchased wheels) - Polish wheel bores with Novus 2 and walgreens q-tip shaft (but not critical...especially if you bought wheels) - If you want to go the extra mile... use auto wax (LG Legend, Tech Wax 2.0, others) to polish inner hubs (again not critical) - Burnish graphite into wheels (lots of ways to do this....spins, pipe cleaners, q-tip shafts, etc.) - Put it all together and add morr graphite. - make sure it rolls right (typically straight or slightly into the rail on a 3 wheel rail rider... probably the way your pre drilled block would be set-up.
Look at this and the other major boards for more details. Sporty has many great posts on building fast cars. Also hit youtube and look up" Spacewalker". His videos are very instructive. Stan Pope's page has information on making useful tools to soup-up your build.
|
|