Post by Sappington R on Mar 24, 2008 16:22:21 GMT -6
soobeesu,
Nice post- rigorous set of rules- yet not uncommon as we have seen others similar. I particularly like the part about "no running around under the bleachers" I think it puts it all into perspective.
In my opinion you are safe to use the shaver and then sand. Just don't dramatically change your diameter (wouldn't want to anyway) most of the rules I've seen state that the rippled edge must be intact. Another tool you may want to try is the balancing jig here is a link:
maximum-velocity.com/wheel-balancer.htm
I found it to improve finger spin time a lot.
Don't forget your inner hub treatments- soft pipecleaners and micro-gloss may be worth a try.
Regarding Axles: I believe that the intent of your rules is to prevent builders from grooving & tapering axles- again just a rule to prevent major modification. Deburing simply means making ruff edges smooth. "Thin sanding" I think, is something to alter the diameter. You wouldn't want to thin sand anyway- creates wobble- if the bore/axles are mismatched. It says that you can't lathe turn. It didn't say that you couldn't turn with a drill or dremel tool. You can do some serious "deburing" with wet sand paper and a dremel After that use some Maas chrome polish and a white pad from the dremel kit. Check your work with a magnifying glass and a good light. After you're done toss em en a jar of denatured alcohol to prevent oxidization. One last thing on axles- you should look getting the axle press- all it does is straightens them out. No way would that be detected. Time your finger spins after graphite. On a full weight BSA wheel 30 seconds is primo. Lightened wheels is a different story. If you want to compete in a district race you will need to interpret the rules a bit more loosely. I assure you that the top cars will. I share in your desire to compete and also to stay within rules.
It's your first district? You won't know until you get there. Good luck with whatever you decide to do- it's all about having fun anyway, isn't it?
Nice post- rigorous set of rules- yet not uncommon as we have seen others similar. I particularly like the part about "no running around under the bleachers" I think it puts it all into perspective.
In my opinion you are safe to use the shaver and then sand. Just don't dramatically change your diameter (wouldn't want to anyway) most of the rules I've seen state that the rippled edge must be intact. Another tool you may want to try is the balancing jig here is a link:
maximum-velocity.com/wheel-balancer.htm
I found it to improve finger spin time a lot.
Don't forget your inner hub treatments- soft pipecleaners and micro-gloss may be worth a try.
Regarding Axles: I believe that the intent of your rules is to prevent builders from grooving & tapering axles- again just a rule to prevent major modification. Deburing simply means making ruff edges smooth. "Thin sanding" I think, is something to alter the diameter. You wouldn't want to thin sand anyway- creates wobble- if the bore/axles are mismatched. It says that you can't lathe turn. It didn't say that you couldn't turn with a drill or dremel tool. You can do some serious "deburing" with wet sand paper and a dremel After that use some Maas chrome polish and a white pad from the dremel kit. Check your work with a magnifying glass and a good light. After you're done toss em en a jar of denatured alcohol to prevent oxidization. One last thing on axles- you should look getting the axle press- all it does is straightens them out. No way would that be detected. Time your finger spins after graphite. On a full weight BSA wheel 30 seconds is primo. Lightened wheels is a different story. If you want to compete in a district race you will need to interpret the rules a bit more loosely. I assure you that the top cars will. I share in your desire to compete and also to stay within rules.
It's your first district? You won't know until you get there. Good luck with whatever you decide to do- it's all about having fun anyway, isn't it?