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Post by Threader on Oct 22, 2004 16:22:11 GMT -6
If it don't roll straight it won't win! I wish I did this step better on my own cars! When talking about alignment everyone agrees it needs to roll straight. How to get it rolling straight is another thing all together. IF the axles are stright, the wood slots or holes good, the wheels roll straight you are half way there. You need to decide what method you are going to use for alignment. You can bend the axles, a little at a time, in a trail and error method. You can use wax paper shims to move the axles into alignment. Whatever method you chose the car needs this step to roll straight and win. There are good threads about how to align so all I will say here is alignment is important, don't skip it.
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Post by Sssnake on Nov 14, 2004 9:05:51 GMT -6
If your rules require axle slots be used. Fill the slots carefully with epoxy and then drill a #44 hole for your axle. this makes alignment much easier. Note: If you have problems inserting your axles, heat the epoxy in the slots with a hair dryer.
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tjm
Newbie
Posts: 3
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Post by tjm on Mar 11, 2006 6:22:58 GMT -6
If your rules require axle slots be used. Fill the slots carefully with epoxy and then drill a #44 hole for your axle. this makes alignment much easier. Note: If you have problems inserting your axles, heat the epoxy in the slots with a hair dryer.
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tjm
Newbie
Posts: 3
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Post by tjm on Mar 11, 2006 6:30:49 GMT -6
Sorry about the preceding blank post. I'm new here.
We are in the situation of having to alter our car. The district race requires using the original axle positions where the pack rules did not. I like the idea of filling the slots with epoxy and drilling them. But, and maybe I need some fresher epoxy, it seems like it takes a lot longer than the time stated on the box for the stuff to completely harden. Also, for such a tiny area I assume that I need the strongest stuff I can get and I don't know how 5 minute and 30 minute epoxies compare. Can anyone recommend which epoxy to use and how long it should cure before drilling?
Tom
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Post by WarpSpeedINC on Mar 11, 2006 8:14:14 GMT -6
We use Devcon 5 minute epoxy. It is very strong, and when mixed 50/50, is ready to machine in 10-15 minutes. We also use it to capture the axles after final set-up. It dries clear, and can be used for external repairs, without making a mess of the paint job.
Warp Speed
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tjm
Newbie
Posts: 3
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Post by tjm on Mar 11, 2006 14:35:40 GMT -6
Thanks, Warp Speed. I have a test piece curing now. The Devcon has a totally different texture from I was using.
If this works I'm set. My 7 year old is more than willing to run a hand drill through a Pro-Body Tool to get a straight axle but the old shim/roll/retest 100 times technique would probably test his attention span!
Tom
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Post by RAIL HUGGER on Mar 11, 2006 17:54:05 GMT -6
A TIP YOU MAY ALREADY KNOW,LIDS FROM BUTTER BOWLS ARE NICE TO CUT STRIPS FROM AND USE TO DAM UP OR MOLD WITH.THE EPOXY DOES'NT ADHERE TO THE PLASTIC SO ONCE YOUR EPOXY CURES YOU CAN REMOVE PIECES OF LID EXPOSING NICE SMOOTH SURFACE.
" RAIL HUGGER"
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Post by patmanruls on Mar 11, 2006 18:24:03 GMT -6
So what is the most popular and successful alignment method?
Stan Popes?
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Post by Smokinjoesracing on Mar 11, 2006 19:32:27 GMT -6
So what is the most popular and successful alignment method? Stan Popes? I like to call mine "A bent nail and a prayer"
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Post by slkrnsntracing on Mar 11, 2006 19:44:21 GMT -6
It helps if you have happy axles!! [img src="http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-9/1084256/COL019[1].jpg"] This axle is unhappy.
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Post by warthog on Mar 12, 2006 8:38:51 GMT -6
I like Buckeye's shim method... foil tape. Easier to work with than the wax paper.
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Post by woodenwonder on Mar 12, 2006 19:23:27 GMT -6
I use Stan Popes every month, but you see were it gets me don't you?
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pw
Newbie
Posts: 4
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Post by pw on Jan 30, 2007 11:58:50 GMT -6
I'm new to the board and to pinewood racing. We just had pack races and my son got 3rd for the tigers den. We're looking to improve some before finals. The car has a slight pull to the left, but when I use the ruler method to check alignment, the wheels look OK.
Also, one wheel is wobbly, but doesnt touch (or barely touches?). I didnt change it for pack races for fear that it would touch more and I'd lose the advantage. Could that be causing the drift?
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