wheel no's

[krubcire]

if i am going to match my wheels what no. is the best?

[Lucky 13]

krubcire said:

if i am going to match my wheels what no. is the best?

I've had luck with the number 2 and 12 molds. The number 4 molds are really good also and for some reason about 1 gram lighter than the rest !!

Lucky 13

[Parrot Racing]

I like the # 7's, have a few small imperfections but for roundness is consistently good and they seem to have a little smaller bore, which helps when polishing your own axles and bores and I like a little tighter fit. 2,4, 8, and 12 would be my next choices. But Lucky13 is much more experienced (and faster) than I, so you probably can't go wrong with the 2,4, or 12.

Enrico

[Da Pine Racing]

I like all the molds mentioned by Bob & Enrico.

Hey Enrico, the 7's are real nice but, the outside edge is very serrated in a way that if a #7 is used on the front running + camber, it kinda seems like it would be like (for lack of a better description) running on a slick tile floor in football cleats and I'm not sure if that is a good or a bad thing when it comes to going fast. I haven't tried them on the front for fear of it being too unstable. Maybe I should try it out.

I do grab every #7 I can get to run on the back. They spin very nice.

[Parrot Racing]

Hey Dwayne, I usually don't run a camber on the front wheel, but you bring up a great point. I am really not sure how it would affect the stability, I think I would stick to another mold for that set-up.

Enrico

[krubcire]

does anyone have any #4 or #7 wheels that they want to sell?

[ProQuest]

Hey guys:

Here is a little known, almost never talked about bit of BSA wheel trivia --

Even wheels with the same mold numbers can, and often do, have different bore sizes, and somewhat different rolling characteristics. If you REALLY want a matched set you have to not only mold match, but also match the bore sizes by measuring the bores with a gage pin. For example, a set of 4 number 8 wheels can have several different size bores ranging from .093 to .097. This is because each mold does not make one wheel at a time. Each mold makes many wheels at a time and the individual wheels made within a wheel mold will be slightly different. So, to maximize the chance of getting a truly matched set first match the mold numbers, and then match the bore size.

So, even if you plan to resize the wheel bores with the Pro-hub tool, or reamer or whatever, if they started out with different bore sizes, you know they did not come out of the exact same part of the mold (even if they have the same mold numbers).

Any thoughts???

ProQuest/Steve H.

[ProQuest]

Just for fun I went and checked 8 no. 11 wheels and I measured 5 different bore sizes. The smallest was .091, then .092, next was .0925, then .093, and finally .097.

Just thought I'd throw that in.

ProQuest/Steve H.

[krubcire]

ProQuest/Steve H.
do you have a set of matched wheels that you are willing to sell?

[ProQuest]

Krubcire:

I went through every wheel I have, approximately 40 wheels, and I can mold match some sets, and I can bore match some sets, but I can't find a set that is both mold and bore matched. Otherwise, I'd be happy to hook you up. If you have some and just need a wheel or two in a particular mold/bore I might be able to help. I just don't have 4 in any one mold that are also bore matched. Sorry.

If you have a few mold matched wheels and don't know what bore sizes they are, you can send them to me I'll be happy to measure them for you. Or you can buy a few gage pins and check them yourself. The pins are pretty cheep. A buck or two each. You would need sizes .090-.099.

ProQuest/Steve H.

[soobeesu]

Some info from someonw who has worked in a few different manufacturing plants...

The wheels are injection molded. Each mold will have different measurements because no two molds, or tools, are the same. The bore has a taper so the wheel can come off the mold pin. The molding process is a heated process to a degree and the wheels have a few seconds to change shape somewhat before they cool enough to maintain shape.

Mold to mold will show the most variation in dimensions, so get the same mold first. Within a mold, there will be variation but less than mold to mold variation, in dimensions. The within mold variation is due to process control of that mold and natural variation of the mold process. You could very well get different mold wheels and get very low wheel bore variation but the probability of this happening is remote...very unlikely.

My glass background ( some similarities to plastics in some respects) wouild suggest that each wheel, and I emphasize each wheel, may have a different thermal history, i.e. properties of the wheel that depend on the histroy of temperature that a wheel experiences. How wouild this manifest itself? If you were to the same pressure to a wheel when sanding, one wheel may have more material removal than another. One wheel may react to temperature differently than another. This type of thing would transalte into thousandths of a second.