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Post by pinefever on Apr 7, 2008 8:45:06 GMT -6
I'm thinking about building a couple test cars that are lowered to see how they perform. Is anyone aware of a tool like the Pro Body Tool that will help me do this?
Does any body want to share their experiences with lowering?
Thanks.
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Post by Smokinjoesracing on Apr 7, 2008 10:15:28 GMT -6
You can redrill the pro body tool. That way you can use it both ways. Just offcenter the second set.
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Post by pinefever on Apr 7, 2008 11:13:12 GMT -6
I was thinking that may be the way to go. I don't understand why the second set of holes should be off center. Can you help me with that?
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Post by Knothead Racing on Apr 7, 2008 13:06:16 GMT -6
Pinefever, It's very difficult to drill another set of holes on the same CL so close to the original set. If you offset the second set it's a little easier.
Don't forget, you need to maintain a 3/8" ground clearance. Too low and you'll be DQed. And that doesn't mean Dairy Queen.
You can also mill out (remove material) the bottom of the fixture to lower the car and shim to restore the original height.
happy drilling
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Post by PinewoodPerformance on Apr 7, 2008 13:11:36 GMT -6
Build a thin wing body and use the Pro Body Tool from the top, that way they are up higher.
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Post by Go Bubba Go on Apr 7, 2008 15:02:01 GMT -6
Build a thin wing body and use the Pro Body Tool from the top, that way they are up higher. You pretty much described my middle boy's Scout car this year, where "thin" equals thickness of MaxV's 1/4" W cubes. Sssshhhh!!!! LOL Bubba
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Post by knotthead on Apr 7, 2008 16:49:05 GMT -6
If you know a machinist, or if you have a local machine shop in your town, take the body tool to him/them and have 1/8" of material removed from inside the tools' notch. That will bring the car closer to the track and still be at legal height
Lee
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Post by pinefever on Apr 8, 2008 6:40:35 GMT -6
Thanks for the ideas. I think I'm going to drill another set of holes that way if I decide lowering isn't the way to go I can still use the tool.
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