Rail Riding on an Old Standard Awana track +

[ninjarabbi1997]

Our kids have raced in the BSA for years, and this will be our first year in an Awana race. The race director described the track as a "wooden track built to the old Awana standard with a bumper to stop the cars". A few questions:

1) We usually set up our cars to rail ride, is this kind of track good for this, or does it make it worse? If yes, what kind of turn should the car do in 4' on a test board?
2) What are the track surface and lane guides like? Smooth, Rough, Gouged?
3) Any CG recommendations for this type of track?
4) The wheel rules are liberal--just have to use Awana wheels, no bushings, bearings or washers. What kind of wheel mods are you seeing at the regionals?

Thanks.

[DerbyDoc.com]

Its hard to say without more details of the track. Does it still have the center rail as a guide? As far as the wheels go, I think youll see products for awana races grow soon because I think awana is growing rapidly. Ill send you a PM about where to get some cool wheels.

[ninjarabbi1997]

It is a center rail guide track. The start gate does not look very high and the slope does not look very steep from surfing Awana sites and looking at pictures of their tracks (many look the same, so I was figuring this was the "old stadard Awana" track. I am hoping someone has some experience on one of these tracks so I will know if rail riding is a good idea, where to set the CG, etc.

Thanks.

[Sappington R]

Hey AtlasBuster, Here is a link to the Official Dremel Sight:

www.dremel.com/en-us/attachments-and-accessories/attachment-accessory-group.htm?H=188544&G=66994

The one I use is the 404 Nylon Bristle brush. I accidentally discovered this spinning method when I was trying to clean & buff the outer wheel. I noticed that when you lightly pressed the spinning brush against the wheel it would propel the wheel at high RPM. Dremel's spin at very high RPM- variable like 10-20,000. I've always used the lowest speed. As long as there is enough graphite in the hub you probably won't damage the wheel. If you have graphite on your fingertips it won't take any skin off either + will help apply to the hub. Are you coning your hubs?

[kcbcommando]

Having raced on them for years, you want to stay off the rail as much as possible. The track is made out of.25 luan plywood, usually unsanded with a coat of urethane or varnish on it. Cars are VERY noisy going down it so that tells you how smooth it is. The center rail is 1/8" thick piece of wood. It typically isn't very smooth and marginally straight. Get dead on alignment that's the fastest route on the old tracks. Expect your car to hit the stop at the end and bounce back/crash. Don't do needle axles as they will get damaged. I would build a "protected car" by having the wheels flush with the outside edge of the car body, that will preserve your alignment longer. PM Me and we can chat in more detail (as soon as I figure out where my inbox is!!)
edit.
Since you are in MI (I'm on west side)
You can't shave your wheels as the rules in the kit say original width and diameter. The awana axle is pretty good, some polish makes it work well.
COG- don't be hyper aggressive as the track surface isn't that good. stick with the standard amount.
Regional level- you will likely see some aluminum tracks and some plexi ones. If you can run 2.5-2.6 on a good track you will bring home hardware. The best time I've seen in 15 years of racing is 2.53 last year and it was a "bought" car, precut with weight pockets etc. Most kids that run 2.7 at regionals will win. On the bumpy track you will have locally 2.9 is very fast.
The level of sophistication at regional level is not that high. You can use extended wheelbase unless your local rules are different but I doubt it. Find out who the AWANA missionary is over there (I can't remember) and ask him about the rules. He will be happy to give you the whole speal. BTW when and where is your race? I'll be in Flint end of January, might be nice to see a race!