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Post by dkgracing on Dec 11, 2008 9:21:26 GMT -6
With the RA races coming up in February I am trying to decide what wheel combination to run. In Open class we can run whatever we want. Last year we ran stock wheels and got blown out in the State event by wheel bearing wheels.
I am looking at running either the Outlaw Bearing Wheels from Max or the new X-lite wheels by DerbyWorks. Any suggestions would be helpful. I am a little nervous about trying to run any needle cars.
Beakerboysracing- What are you running this year?
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JustaDad
Addicted to Speed
1Cor 9:24
Posts: 79
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Post by JustaDad on Dec 11, 2008 11:12:29 GMT -6
I don't have the experience that others on this board do, but I do understand something about physics.
The lighter the wheels the less the rolling mass. The less rolling mass the faster the car.
Friction is death, so the thiner wheels will be faster based on a much smaller contact patch.
The axles are next and you should go with the needles. The smaller diameter equals less friction, less friction equals more speed.
Look into NyOil over the graphite for a little extra speed.
In our open class, we require only the items in the kit be used except for weights. This way you have to get creative with stock BSA wheels to get them light, thin, and fast. And it is a lot cheaper ;D.
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beakerboysracing
Head in the Pine
You can pick your friends, you can pick your nose, but you can't flick your friends across the room.
Posts: 167
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Post by beakerboysracing on Dec 11, 2008 13:58:54 GMT -6
With the RA races coming up in February I am trying to decide what wheel combination to run. In Open class we can run whatever we want. Last year we ran stock wheels and got blown out in the State event by wheel bearing wheels. I am looking at running either the Outlaw Bearing Wheels from Max or the new X-lite wheels by DerbyWorks. Any suggestions would be helpful. I am a little nervous about trying to run any needle cars. Beakerboysracing- What are you running this year? Dkgracing, I ran the Max-v bearings last year for the RA races. My son's car came in second at state and was inched out(literally) by a thousands of a second by the winning car. The problem I had with those wheel/bearing combo was that they were very fragile. Any slight bump and the wheels came apart. If you chose to go with this set up, get some of those loose leaf ring binders(little white rings) and put it on the inside of the wheels where the cap holding the wheel to the bearing is. I also don't like how sloppy the bearings are. There is allot of latteral play in them which can make the car squirrelly going down the track. And 8 oz. is rough on them. I like needles because they are simple and easy and if set up right, faster than bearings. As for what I'm running this year........  Scott Beakerboys |
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Post by dkgracing on Jan 5, 2009 14:00:58 GMT -6
Scott,
I have ever set up a needle car, but I guess there is a first time for everything.
Have you ever run oil with the RA wheels. I was thinking about it, but not sure how it will work with softer plastic wheels.
One last question Scott, What do you think is the magic weight for the open class. We ran 8oz on the nose last year. It's hard to run a thin car with 8oz's.
Thanks,
Keith
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beakerboysracing
Head in the Pine
You can pick your friends, you can pick your nose, but you can't flick your friends across the room.
Posts: 167
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Post by beakerboysracing on Jan 5, 2009 14:18:11 GMT -6
Scott, I have ever set up a needle car, but I guess there is a first time for everything. Have you ever run oil with the RA wheels. I was thinking about it, but not sure how it will work with softer plastic wheels. One last question Scott, What do you think is the magic weight for the open class. We ran 8oz on the nose last year. It's hard to run a thin car with 8oz's. Thanks, Keith Keith, Don't be afraid of a needle set up, they are easy to do. If you have a probody tool, then all you need is a wd40 straw to drill the axle holes. Just cut off the straw and insert into the hole of the pro body tool and drill with a pin vise. Drill bits come with the wheels. I prefer drill blanks over the axles supplied with the wheels. They stand up to a little more abuse, but they are hard to bend. www.drillblanks.com, call steve there and he can set you up with any length you need. I get them 2 3/4 in lenght and run a straight axle on the rear. As far as weight, I don't think 8 oz. is the magic #. I sent my bearing car into WIRL right after State last year. It was Max V bearings, 8oz. It got soundly beat by 5 oz. needle cars. I plan on doing some experiment this month with weight on my track, going to add plates to the bottom of the car to find the magic weight. I have heard some say that 7 to 7 1/2 oz is the magic weight. We shall see. I personally think graphite is the way to go. Even on needles. Scott Beakerboys |
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Post by dkgracing on Jan 26, 2009 7:50:54 GMT -6
What is the secret to lubing needles with graphite. I can't seem to get any inside the bore unless I take the wheel off. I have tried Hob E Lub and Max-v. I can only get a couple of runs on the car before the lube runs out and the wheel starts to chatter on the axle.
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Post by wannabefaster on Feb 9, 2009 19:38:56 GMT -6
Great tip Scott on drilling the needle axles. I will give this a try. What do you use on the end of the drill blanks in place of the axle head?
The method I have used to get graphite into the bore is to use a countersink bit on the wheel bore at the end which comes in contact with the axle head. I do this by hand and only remove enough material in order to create a funnel effect for the bore. When the car is on its side the graphite can be worked into the bore. On regular axles I use TOL. I think with the needles I would use the finer Maxv or Pwextreme graphite. I have never been able to make an oil lube go any faster than graphite and I have tried several different methods to apply the oil.
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