To keep the standard wheel base or not?

[speedy]

First year doing BSA racing and wanted to get an understanding of which end of the car should be the front? The wheel slot closer to the end (approx 1") or the one further away (approx 1 3/4")?

Or should I make new holes closer to both ends?

Thanks in advance for any help!

[Low E. T.]

Dec 11, 2008 21:49:49 GMT -6 speedy said:

First year doing BSA racing and wanted to get an understanding of which end of the car should be the front? The wheel slot closer to the end (approx 1") or the one further away (approx 1 3/4")?

Or should I make new holes closer to both ends?

Thanks in advance for any help!

If you have to use the slots, use the one farthest away from the end of the block for the front.

If you are allowed to drill new holes and extend the wheelbase, by all means do so, just make sure your wheels do not extend past the end of the car.

[JustaDad]

It's all about the rules. If they allow an extended wheel base then do it.

Make sure you drill at least 5/8" from the end of the wood. Any closer to the end and your wheels will be past the wood and you car will be to long. I drill 3/4" to be safe and give room for the end of the wood to hit the stop without messing up my wheel alignment.

Good Luck!

[speedy]

Thanks for the info and response,

We are allowed to drill new holes, what would be the best way to accomplish that?

[sporty]

I can not say enoug about the pro body tool, it works wheel for drilling those exstended axle wholes. The new one with the added adjuster looks even better.

Thats what i recommend for trying.

[Low E. T.]

Dec 12, 2008 12:01:36 GMT -6 speedy said:

Thanks for the info and response,

We are allowed to drill new holes, what would be the best way to accomplish that?

Speedy,

First I make sure my block (car body) is square, then I drill the holes with a drill press. Just make sure the table is square with the drill bit.

I would suggest drilling the holes before you do any cutting on the block.

[speedy]

I just ordered the pro body tool II, hopefully this will get us down the track successfully!

[ichiban]

Cool beans! Now find out if you're allowed to raise one wheel so you're only racing on three wheels. This will reduce approximately 25% of the total wheel friction. If so, you'll want to use the "raised axle hole" in the pro body tool II for one of the front axle holes (make sure you only drill three standard axle holes).

Regards to drilling, I used a power drill a year ago but since then I heard using a hand drill is preferred so you have less chance of drilling the holes of the pro body tool II bigger. So if you have one use it, otherwise dont worry about it.

And another thing to consider is the clamp you use (if you decide not to hold it with your hand) to hold the pro body tool onto the pinewood. A spring loaded clamp may have too much force and actually compress the pinewood block slightly. If the pinewood block is not compressed as much or more, then your front and rear holes will be at slightly different heights. An adjustable clamp works better.

[JustaDad]

I find the use of a pin vise to be the best for me and it is easy for your son to use! You can get them at any big box store or tool shack and they are cheap. Just chuck up the bit that comes with the pro body tool II and go slow.

ALWAYS clamp the tool to the block, alignment is crucial, so verify you have it square to the block.

Good Luck!!

[speedy]

I have never used a pin vise before, but they look pretty simple.

Is there really a benefit to using one over the old electric drill?

[JustaDad]

[quote I have never used a pin vise before, but they look pretty simple.

Is there really a benefit to using one over the old electric drill?[/quote]

Yes. You are less likely to cut into you PBT with the pin vise than with a power tool. And the pin vise is kid friendly.