JustaDad
Addicted to Speed
1Cor 9:24
Posts: 79
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Post by JustaDad on Feb 12, 2009 11:58:55 GMT -6
Has anyone ever tried to make a car based on the following information? I have cut the pine block to 1/8" thin, drilled axle holes and narrowed the car to 1-1/8". I will shave the width of the wheels, but leave the hubs at full width. This should give me the 1-5/8" add in the axle gap and I should be able to clear the rail. The reason I'm looking into this is when I cut off the hub the wheels flop loosely on the axles. I think this would allow for more stability. I am going too far is trying to get the car body too light before adding weight?
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psycaz
Addicted to Speed
Posts: 86
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Post by psycaz on Feb 12, 2009 12:56:53 GMT -6
Does 1/8" leave enough room for full size diameter axles?
That is only about 0.015 on either side of the hole for body mass to hold the axles.
Wouldn't the body be susceptible to breaking at those points?
Thinnest I ever dared go is 1/4, and that was on accident, but I use it now.
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Post by speedie4u on Feb 12, 2009 18:48:32 GMT -6
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Post by Derby Monkey on Feb 12, 2009 18:52:06 GMT -6
I must admit that is an intriguing idea.
Are you using pine or a harder wood?
Are you going to raise a front wheel by canting?
The thinnest I've ever gone is 1/4" also... and I have broken a lot of pine bodies in the process. So, when the rules allow, I now use poplar for a lot of my car bodies.
I am looking forward to seeing your finished product.
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JustaDad
Addicted to Speed
1Cor 9:24
Posts: 79
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Post by JustaDad on Feb 12, 2009 21:17:32 GMT -6
Does 1/8" leave enough room for full size diameter axles? That is only about 0.015 on either side of the hole for body mass to hold the axles. Wouldn't the body be susceptible to breaking at those points? Thinnest I ever dared go is 1/4, and that was on accident, but I use it now. I too made a mistake and ended up with a 1/8" thick rear section for my car this year and it held up fine and I have over 4 onces of weight on it right on top of the back axles. I thought my design would break for sure. I made a "ruler" (pun on Caesar my last name) Picture an "I" beam with the top flat cut off and then I cut into the bottom flat until I got to the upright leaving 3/4" in the front and back. (Looking down from the top it looks like the letter I) The ruler part is 3/16" thick tapering to an edge at the top and bottom. I drilled holes in it and put the size inch, half inch and quarter inch makers on it to make it look like a real ruler. It was very light and I was able to place the weight right where I wanted it. But it made me think, maybe 1/8" would work! I will try to post some pictures of it.
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JustaDad
Addicted to Speed
1Cor 9:24
Posts: 79
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Post by JustaDad on Feb 12, 2009 21:28:44 GMT -6
I must admit that is an intriguing idea. Are you using pine or a harder wood? Are you going to raise a front wheel by canting? The thinnest I've ever gone is 1/4" also... and I have broken a lot of pine bodies in the process. So, when the rules allow, I now use poplar for a lot of my car bodies. I am looking forward to seeing your finished product. To build the car I am using poplar for extra strength, but I think I will make a pine one as well just to see what happens. I intend on canting and raising the wheel with some extra cant, but will also reduce the diameter of the wheel to be sure I'm 3 wheeling. Based on my goof this year and the car surviving, I think you can make it work with pine, however I did not paint my car I just cleared it.( I wanted it to look like a real ruler) That with the addition of the placement of the weight seemed to stiffen the car. Once I get it done I will try and post some pictures so it will make more sense than just trying to describe it.
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