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Post by Threader on Jul 26, 2004 14:24:24 GMT -6
Can tight clearance's on PC wheels to axles can be overdone?
I have an opinion that they can.
What do you think?
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Post by TurtlePowered on Jul 26, 2004 14:50:15 GMT -6
For sure. Certain BSA wheels need to be reamed with the pro-wheel tool before the wheels are useable. You can also pack graphite in a wheel to make a wheel un-spinable.
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Post by Threader on Jul 28, 2004 11:52:25 GMT -6
Turtle, I use a liquid lube. I have tried the 8 other lubes and have no confidence in them. Standard BSA wheels are like Tinker Toys when it comes to a piece racing hardware. Even the tight wheels are loose causing the wheels to flop around like a newly caught fish. I went with a much tighter wheel and I think I got carried away. We are talking a couple of thousand's of an inch or less. This is the way we built our high performance steet machines. I'm a little shocked by the car's doing so poorly.  |
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Post by TurtlePowered on Jul 28, 2004 12:09:50 GMT -6
Turtle, I use a liquid lube. I have tried the 8 other lubes and have no confidence in them. Standard BSA wheels are like Tinker Toys when it comes to a piece racing hardware. Even the tight wheels are loose causing the wheels to flop around like a newly caught fish. I went with a much tighter wheel and I think I got carried away. We are talking a couple of thousand's of an inch or less. This is the way we built our high performance steet machines. I'm a little shocked by the car's doing so poorly. So are you are not using a BSA wheel? Are you matching the wheel type to the axel they belong with? Certain BSA molds have to be reamed before they can be sanded (using the screw that goes in the hole). Are you talking about your modified class entry? Could the lube be too thick to spin freely? If you don't want to disclose your secrets to everybody instant message me, I am curious what you are doing! |
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Post by Threader on Jul 28, 2004 13:04:32 GMT -6
The stock class wheels are just BSA, that's the rule. I never found one of the 80+ wheels I have that was too tight to work right on the axle. There are some that are too tight to be turned on certain tools. Maybe graphite would need more room? I made the wheels for the last modified car from plastic stock. THAT DIDN'T WORK!  At least not yet. Your right, I think I would have been better off with no lube since there wasn't enough room for it ( I guess ). The car should be back soon and I can get started on finding the problem. |
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Post by TurtlePowered on Jul 28, 2004 13:13:38 GMT -6
The stock class wheels are just BSA, that's the rule. I never found one of the 80+ wheels I have that was too tight to work right on the axle. There are some that are too tight to be turned on certain tools. Maybe graphite would need more room? I made the wheels for the last modified car from plastic stock. THAT DIDN'T WORK! At least not yet. Your right, I think I would have been better off with no lube since there wasn't enough room for it ( I guess ). The car should be back soon and I can get started on finding the problem. You made your own wheels from stock plastic? Cool!!! I would be very interested in your process (note, I don't have any equipment probably for that). I always felt bad when you could not lathe the wheels and you had a big divit hole in the wheel. Maybe your process could be somewhat modifed to smooth out bad wheels? If your liquid lube is not wet silicone, make sure it is a very thin like Ny-Oil. Or even better, I seem to remember a similar oil that was not quite as touchy as Ny-Oil. Can't recall it's name though. Maybe a search of derbytalk.com would reveal it. |
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Post by John Palmieri on Jul 28, 2004 13:24:40 GMT -6
I seem to remember a similar oil that was not quite as touchy as Ny-Oil. Can't recall it's name though. Maybe a search of derbytalk.com would reveal it. Might that be SB10 ? I tried SB10, NYOIL II and silicone. None of them really worked for me on my 18 ft track. My fastest times are with graphite. I need to test more with them when I get more time. John. |
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Post by Threader on Jul 28, 2004 13:37:34 GMT -6
You made your own wheels from stock plastic? Cool!!! I would be very interested in your process ( I took round stock plastic. Drilled a center hole then turned the untire piece for the four wheels. Then I used a parting tool to seperate it into four pieces. After I made a mandrel to hold the plastic solid I turned the sides and made the hubs. That's It ( It sure sounded simple, didn't it ) Yes, That might be SB-10. Not as fussy as NY-Oil. |
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Post by TurtlePowered on Jul 28, 2004 13:55:30 GMT -6
I took round stock plastic. Drilled a center hole then turned the untire piece for the four wheels. Then I used a parting tool to seperate it into four pieces. After I made a mandrel to hold the plastic solid I turned the sides and made the hubs. That's It ( It sure sounded simple, didn't it ) Simpler than creating your own wheel completely by scratch anyway. Did you fine polish the inside hub of the wheel? How much clearance was there between the hub and axel? |
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Post by Threader on Jul 28, 2004 14:32:37 GMT -6
Except for making the plastic stock I did make the whole wheel by scratch! I guess I wasn't clear.
Clearance axle to wheel was about 3 t.
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Post by TurtlePowered on Jul 28, 2004 14:59:59 GMT -6
Except for making the plastic stock I did make the whole wheel by scratch! I guess I wasn't clear. Clearance axle to wheel was about 3 t. Somehow I was envisioning a plastic injection system. Not sure of about that measurement (but will be learning) but how did the wheels do on the tried and true spin test? |
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Post by Threader on Jul 28, 2004 15:14:34 GMT -6
They were smooth and did very well.
When I get the car back I'll give you more info.
Threader
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At least not yet.
