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Post by derbydad on Jan 18, 2007 23:11:42 GMT -6
Our rules require using the Axel groves and not drilling our own holes. I can't seem to get the axels in straight. How do you do it? My initial tries would give the impression I was under the influence.
Second question, the rules say we need to use the axel groves but I was if I could cut the block and glue it back together so as to move ( lengthen) the wheel locations. The rules say nothing about distance between the axels.
Thanks Derby Dad
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234
Addicted to Speed
Posts: 79
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Post by 234 on Jan 19, 2007 6:27:23 GMT -6
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Post by Barga Racing on Jan 19, 2007 7:35:04 GMT -6
derbydad, About 5 or 6 years ago my son's Cub Scout rules were exactly the same way. When I suggested one year that I should have cut the block in half and swapped ends to make an extended wheelbase, the very next year the rules stated "stock axle grooves must be used and wheelbase cannot be modified". I think you would get a lot of nasty looks at the derby if you were to do that, if they even let it run.
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j2ce
Addicted to Speed
Posts: 92
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Post by j2ce on Jan 19, 2007 8:02:05 GMT -6
I agree with Barga. To much of a hassle to get nasty looks etc.... Beside your child can build just as fast car with some work to the axles, wheels, good lubrication, and a proper wheel alignment. Max V has some simple car plans for the standard cub scout PWD car that are easy to build. Look at the Stealth or the Wing and you can download the plans and start building right away. good luck to your boy at the races.
j2ce
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Post by spindoctor on Jan 20, 2007 14:27:37 GMT -6
However you may wish to cut off the back of the block and glue it to the front to get the wheels further back.
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Post by slkrnsntracing on Jan 20, 2007 15:56:48 GMT -6
derbydad,
This discussion is a perfect example of why it is necessary to have a detailed set of rules.
I think I would ask the person in charge if it would be legal to alter the block. If they say no then somebody else won't show up with extended axles and be allowed to run.
If they say yes, then you've given everybody else the idea, but it's only fair when everybody runs under the same rules.
Good luck.
Phil
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Post by derby dad on Jan 20, 2007 19:54:36 GMT -6
Thanks for the help. I've ordered the tool to help insert the axels.
Derby Dad
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nigal
Green Lumber
Posts: 15
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Post by nigal on Jan 22, 2007 11:40:30 GMT -6
Derby Dad, This might be too late, but check to make sure that the axle slots are square to the block edges. Using a machinist's square and checking over 60 blocks, I only found four that had straight slots. I don't think that the Pro-axle guide will help if the axle slot is not straight.
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Post by derbydad on Jan 25, 2007 21:39:47 GMT -6
Hey.. with only a short time left til D-day, the axle guide tool arrived today. Thanks again pointing it out. Nigal, just in case, I plan on re drilling the slots.
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Scott B Pack85 Gorham ME
Guest
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Post by Scott B Pack85 Gorham ME on Mar 6, 2007 9:09:53 GMT -6
Here's what's worked for my sons and I in the past. Whether you're using the slots or drilling your own holes, a #11 wire gauge drill bit is the perfect diameter. It is only a fraction of a millimeter smaller that the diameter of the axles. Put it on a drill press. We use a simple small carpenter's square and a pair of vice grips. We make a jig. usually we use another Pinewood derby block as a test block to determine proper spacing. This works especially well when using the pre-cut slots. Set the depth of the drill press to go down as far as the axle will go then use the test block to determine the correct distance from the bottom of the block. When the correct distance is achieved, the drill bit will create a straight, consistent, true slot for the axle to be inserted. If the wheels are all the same diameter, it will also ensure that all 4 wheels touch too.
Remember, a #11 wire gauge drill bit. They sell tthem at most all hardware stores and they usually only cost around 2 to 3 dollars\
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