Post by bEAKERBOYRACING on Apr 9, 2008 17:49:12 GMT -6
I need help!
Let me begin by saying that I truly respect every builder on this site. After many months of reading and researching and observing racing footage, you guys are the absolute best at this hobby. That being said, I now come to you humbly asking for any advise and help that anyone is willing to give.
My sons and I have been involved in pine wood derby for just about a year now which began in the RA chapter at our church last year. Needless to say, without any knowledge or skills that first year was a disaster. After that , I made up my mind that we were going to do better the next year so I began reading and acquiring as much knowledge and understanding and tooling as I possible could over the course of the last year. This year brought two of my sons joining scouting as well as participating in our RA chapter. With the great tools from DerbyWorxs and the expert advise from Randy Davis(Maximum Velocity), my two sons did very well this year in competition.
Now, one of my sons has qualified for the National RA race being held in Indianapolis In. in June of this year. It is truly a chance of a lifetime as well as a sizable investment of time and money to participate. The problem I have is that the rules for the National Race are extremely strict and different from past levels and our car will not pass inspection so a new car will have to be built. the main problem I have is that the only experience I have is building extended wheel base cars with axle holes and this race requires using the factory slots on the blocks provided by the RA supplier. Let me give you a brief summary of the rules:
1. only block used is from RA association and the axle slots must be used ( 4 1/4 spacing)
2. only deburing and buffing of axles allowed. no other modifications and must be axles from kit.
3. no modifications to wheels other than removing flashing from tread( no coning of hubs)
4. other standard weight(5oz) and height, width, length.
5. track will be a side rail design.
6. single elimination.
Now, this is what I plan to do and if I miss anything or anyone has a better suggestion, please share as it is 563 miles one way to Indianapolis from my home and the race is single elimination so I sure would hate to drive all that way and race one time.
1. plan on using factory slots of 4 1/4 center to center. Slots are cut in such a way that when i put my pro body tool on and drill from the raised axle position the holes line up at top of slot. How would I get one wheel raised using axle slots? Thought about flipping block, drilling holes and then cut with hacksaw to recreate axle slots. What do you think?
2. debur and polish axles to 2500 grit wet sand paper and straighten axles with axle press. i also think a slight taper on the head of the axle would be OK because frankly that is the only way I have found to get rid of the burs.
3. redress wheels with wheel shaver and recreate pointed tread with exacto knife. true hubs with pro hub tool and and polish wheels with 1500 grit sandpaper, and polish bore with pro bore polish tool. I am also thinking about two sets of wheels with second set being tapped with 4 40 tap to see which set is faster. What is your opinion about tapped wheels?
4. Weight placement. Not sure where my balance point should be on a short wheel base car as I have no experience with this set up. I thought about 3/4 of an inch in front of rear wheels. Do you think that is to aggressive?
5. thought about rail riding but I have never built one that rides center rail not to mention one that will need to ride an outside rail. Do you think I should attempt a rail rider and stick with dead on alignment to make the car run straight?
6. plan on a simple flat design such as a wing or something with a 3/16 or 1/4 profile.
7. I have always left a small section of wood bare around the axle and then rubbed graphite in very good to make slick. Do you think this is better than painting or would you paint this area with a good clear to make it slick?
If anyone has any suggestions or opinions to what I have written I would greatly appreciate your input as I truly respect your opinions and would truly like to see my child succeed at this National race.
P.S. I'll be seeing you guys at WIRL as I just mailed four cars off so be looking for Beakerboysracing and I look forward to competing against the best.
Yours in Christ,
Scott
Let me begin by saying that I truly respect every builder on this site. After many months of reading and researching and observing racing footage, you guys are the absolute best at this hobby. That being said, I now come to you humbly asking for any advise and help that anyone is willing to give.
My sons and I have been involved in pine wood derby for just about a year now which began in the RA chapter at our church last year. Needless to say, without any knowledge or skills that first year was a disaster. After that , I made up my mind that we were going to do better the next year so I began reading and acquiring as much knowledge and understanding and tooling as I possible could over the course of the last year. This year brought two of my sons joining scouting as well as participating in our RA chapter. With the great tools from DerbyWorxs and the expert advise from Randy Davis(Maximum Velocity), my two sons did very well this year in competition.
Now, one of my sons has qualified for the National RA race being held in Indianapolis In. in June of this year. It is truly a chance of a lifetime as well as a sizable investment of time and money to participate. The problem I have is that the rules for the National Race are extremely strict and different from past levels and our car will not pass inspection so a new car will have to be built. the main problem I have is that the only experience I have is building extended wheel base cars with axle holes and this race requires using the factory slots on the blocks provided by the RA supplier. Let me give you a brief summary of the rules:
1. only block used is from RA association and the axle slots must be used ( 4 1/4 spacing)
2. only deburing and buffing of axles allowed. no other modifications and must be axles from kit.
3. no modifications to wheels other than removing flashing from tread( no coning of hubs)
4. other standard weight(5oz) and height, width, length.
5. track will be a side rail design.
6. single elimination.
Now, this is what I plan to do and if I miss anything or anyone has a better suggestion, please share as it is 563 miles one way to Indianapolis from my home and the race is single elimination so I sure would hate to drive all that way and race one time.
1. plan on using factory slots of 4 1/4 center to center. Slots are cut in such a way that when i put my pro body tool on and drill from the raised axle position the holes line up at top of slot. How would I get one wheel raised using axle slots? Thought about flipping block, drilling holes and then cut with hacksaw to recreate axle slots. What do you think?
2. debur and polish axles to 2500 grit wet sand paper and straighten axles with axle press. i also think a slight taper on the head of the axle would be OK because frankly that is the only way I have found to get rid of the burs.
3. redress wheels with wheel shaver and recreate pointed tread with exacto knife. true hubs with pro hub tool and and polish wheels with 1500 grit sandpaper, and polish bore with pro bore polish tool. I am also thinking about two sets of wheels with second set being tapped with 4 40 tap to see which set is faster. What is your opinion about tapped wheels?
4. Weight placement. Not sure where my balance point should be on a short wheel base car as I have no experience with this set up. I thought about 3/4 of an inch in front of rear wheels. Do you think that is to aggressive?
5. thought about rail riding but I have never built one that rides center rail not to mention one that will need to ride an outside rail. Do you think I should attempt a rail rider and stick with dead on alignment to make the car run straight?
6. plan on a simple flat design such as a wing or something with a 3/16 or 1/4 profile.
7. I have always left a small section of wood bare around the axle and then rubbed graphite in very good to make slick. Do you think this is better than painting or would you paint this area with a good clear to make it slick?
If anyone has any suggestions or opinions to what I have written I would greatly appreciate your input as I truly respect your opinions and would truly like to see my child succeed at this National race.
P.S. I'll be seeing you guys at WIRL as I just mailed four cars off so be looking for Beakerboysracing and I look forward to competing against the best.
Yours in Christ,
Scott
