Aggressive COG

[Derby Monkey]

OK... throw your opinion at me again.

This may be a similar repeat of another thread but I'd like your option for my specific situation.

Last year, our pack ran on an aluminum Best track. I went agressive with a COG 3/4" in front of the rear axles. We did very well.

This year, we are in a new pack. They run on a wood track. I had to ask for as much info on the track as I could since I have never seen it.

The wood track info is as follows:

1. Fast and steep drop into the transition curve and then flat the majority of the way.

2. Pack leader says the track is in very good condition.

3. He says the joints are tight, secure and smooth. Long sections with few joints.

4. He says they have never experienced problems with cars jumping off of the track. (I do not know how aggressive the car designs have been)

Now... I want to go as aggressive as I can on the COG and still be safe.

What would you recommend???

Thanks

[Sappington R]

SROB- good to see you back on the board!

C.O.G. or C.O.M shouldn't change from wood to aluminum. Go as aggressive as the body style will allow. 5/8 is tight. See if you can achieve a L-R balance on the rears.

good luck!

[Derby Monkey]

Hey Sapp...

Good to be back. Do you think we'll be safe with a rail rider on a wood track???

Thanks

[Derby Monkey]

The car body will allow for a COG of down to 5/8". I'm not sure that I'm brave enough to run it that aggressive on a never before seen wood track. I was thinking more like 3/4". What do you think???

[Sappington R]

SROB, in theory yes- should be absolutely no diff. between wood and aluminum for car set-up. The problem lies in track set-up. If the track is smooth and in good condition AND it's set up level then no worries.

Here is an idea: Get to know your pack leader and volunteer to help set the track up and also to help with check-in, ect... he will probably like your help and you will get to make sure that track is set up to your satisfaction- bring a leveling system

Since you don't get a chance to practice on it (or maybe you will ) maybe not as aggressive with your steer in on the FDW. But what would be worse: A three wheeler bouncing off the center guide strip with the raised wheel braking?

You only have one car to enter? If more than one car try one aggressive and one less. Or, try one left to right steer, the other right to left (will compensate for variations in center guide).

So- what happens after the pack race? do you have a district to go on to if you finish in the top 10 percent? It's likely the district will run on a newer aluminum track.

There is a great article by Jay Wiles (Warp Speed) about the RR method on Derbydoc.com here is a link:

derbydoc.com/Rail_Rider_Method.htm

IF you haven't already- I highly recommend you purchase the RR tool for your Pro-axle press from DerbyWorx- it is definitely the way to go for axle bending

[Derby Monkey]

Sapp...

Only the top 2 cars in each class qualifies for the district race and yes it is on an aluminum track. My son can only enter one car in his pack race class but we can enter several cars in the open class in other family member names. If the open class car qualifies for district, and his does not, we can change the car owner's name to him and he can run in the open class at district.

Yeah, I just got the new RR tool. I haven't used it yet... but will soon. I have never canted the rear wheels before. Do you do this with significant results?

Thanks

[Sappington R]

SROB...
I personally feel that there is huge gain by putting up to 2.5 neg camb. on the rears. However, others will disagree. Proquest, of the fastest builders in the leagues will tell you that he does not cant (not that he can't cant ). The best set up that I've ever done has been negative on the rear and positive on the FDW.

I'm sure that others will chime in on this one!!!

Good Luck!