bcatv
Green Lumber
Posts: 11
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Post by bcatv on Jan 24, 2009 13:47:14 GMT -6
Playing with my just-received Pro Rail-Rider tool, and not yet able to put the car on the track, I bent an axle to 2.5, then mounted two wheels, one raw, one prepped with reamed bore, and in both cases it seemed that the wheel was able to put the entire tread down rather than just the inside edge. While this might ride on the inside edge at speed, it doesn't prevent the possibility of side-to-side wobble that more cant does.
Has anyone tested a range of cants extending beyond 2.5?
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Post by evolution on Jan 24, 2009 17:30:37 GMT -6
I have played with a lot of different angles and I have found that between 2 and 3 is the best. Anything more then that and you start losing speed. I have played with compound angles too, you do not want to even go there.
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bcatv
Green Lumber
Posts: 11
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Post by bcatv on Jan 24, 2009 21:17:37 GMT -6
Interesting, thanks. My concern was leaving that "balanced on one point on the axle" wobble possibility open as opposed to having two points, one on top and one on bottom, always in contact.
Have you used grooved axles with the canted setups?
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Post by evolution on Jan 24, 2009 22:55:42 GMT -6
Yes, I have used grooved axles with canted wheels. I have had good luck doing so, but this does depend on the style groove used and the angle that you use. If just starting out I would try ungrooved axles and try different angles. Once you have the angle that works best with your design, then try using grooved axles. I have made a lot of bodies this year with different angles, ride height, wheel bases, and three or four wheels touching. I will tell you that different body style seemed to work well with different types of setups. There are many ways of making a fast car, I have found what works best for me right now, I hope you find what works best for you. Keep asking questions, I did.
Evolution
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Sappington R
Head in the Pine
"The Sappster" 10oz
Posts: 210
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Post by Sappington R on Jan 25, 2009 12:33:23 GMT -6
hey bcatv,
If you Bend the axle to 2.5 with the RR tool and insert the axle/wheel into the body with neg. camber as your intent, depending upon how far the wheel is to the axle head will determine whether the outside edge is "up or not". The other thought would be that your drilled holes may be off slightly, perhaps drilled down - putting the axle into positive territory- thus equalizing your 2.5 bend. Regardless, the gap is very key with canted axles- I'm finding that more is better.
Good luck!
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beakerboysracing
Head in the Pine
You can pick your friends, you can pick your nose, but you can't flick your friends across the room.
Posts: 167
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Post by beakerboysracing on Jan 25, 2009 20:13:30 GMT -6
Playing with my just-received Pro Rail-Rider tool, and not yet able to put the car on the track, I bent an axle to 2.5, then mounted two wheels, one raw, one prepped with reamed bore, and in both cases it seemed that the wheel was able to put the entire tread down rather than just the inside edge. While this might ride on the inside edge at speed, it doesn't prevent the possibility of side-to-side wobble that more cant does. Has anyone tested a range of cants extending beyond 2.5? I have found that 3 to 4 degrees is the best set up for the FDW. Just gets a little tricky for steering at that angle, it's very sensitive to minor changes. This is where the K-Groove comes in handy! Scott Beakerboys |
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Post by speed on Feb 24, 2009 17:07:05 GMT -6
What about for the modified class. Would you cant the needle axles? I could see doing it to keep the wheel off of the body.
Thanks in advance for any help
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